Trunk mount battery questions - Lateral-g Forums

65 347 · #1 08-09-2009, 12:53 PM

Hi guys,
I was hoping someone could help with some questions.

I want to mount the battery in the trunk,

1) what is the best mount to secure the battery
2) best place to run the cable to the front (inside the interior or out)
3) what cable should I use

Thanks

asifnyc · #2 08-11-2009, 12:51 AM

don't know if it'll help but I posted a blog entry about my trunk mount battery. I bought a cheap ($17) batter tray from speedway motors. bolted it to my trunk floor. ran the neg. cable right through the trunk floor and bolted to frame rail. routed the pos. cable through the trunk and under the rear seat, drilled a hole to pass it beneath the car and ran it the rest of the way to the engine bay...

http://asifnyc.com/?p=375

AJSZR2326 · #3 08-11-2009, 12:45 PM

i used a #2 welding cable from battery to starter, just make sure your block has a good ground to frame

65 347 · #4 08-13-2009, 06:53 PM

thanks for your help

**XcYZ** · #5 08-14-2009, 08:42 AM

I ran 2 grounds. One goes right to the body, the other goes to the block. It's on the overkill side, but it's nice to know that a few extra dollars invested here won't cause potential issues down the road.

Norm Peterson · #6 08-14-2009, 09:12 AM

I would weld a stud or short hex-head bolt to the chassis rather than trust a bolted-only connection not to oxidize/corrode between the bolt/stud and the sheetmetal.

On the avatar car (full-frame) I ran a short length of threaded rod through the floor (with nuts and star washers) and welded a short hex-head bolt to the frame rail. Ran one short cable from battery- to threaded rod and another short cable from the outside of the sheetmetal to the bolt. Welded another bolt to the frame rail in the engine compartment. No starting problems, ever.

It's only 'overkill' until doing it in a less fussy way doesn't let you start the car.

Norm

deuce_454 · #7 08-14-2009, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

I would weld a stud or short hex-head bolt to the chassis rather than trust a bolted-only connection not to oxidize/corrode between the bolt/stud and the sheetmetal.

On the avatar car (full-frame) I ran a short length of threaded rod through the floor (with nuts and star washers) and welded a short hex-head bolt to the frame rail. Ran one short cable from battery- to threaded rod and another short cable from the outside of the sheetmetal to the bolt. Welded another bolt to the frame rail in the engine compartment. No starting problems, ever.

It's only 'overkill' until doing it in a less fussy way doesn't let you start the car.

Norm

norm said it.... :-) cool bu btw

65 347 · #8 08-15-2009, 09:32 AM

Thanks guys, I have no problem with overkill. Did you run your positive cable inside the car or under or does it matter?

Norm Peterson · #9 08-19-2009, 06:35 AM

I ran mine inside, and used the cable space under the sill cover plate for part of the run. I'd have to go look if you want any more detail, as it's been about a dozen years since I did the job.

Outside the passenger compartment on that side is where my EFI supply and return lines live (my return line used to be the OE carb fuel line). No way was I going to put potentially arc-welding levels of current anywhere near them. I'm not sure where the fuel line on the early Mustang runs, and my daughter's crash-damaged '66 coupe is buried a little too deep in storage to get at/under very easily, but just the possibility of road debris reaching up and snagging a sag in the cable doesn't sound like something that's headed for a good end result.

Years ago, my son had a "performance shop" do a trunk mount battery installation for him - and the morons actually ziptied the battery+ cable TO THE FUEL LINE!!! Didn't stay that way long at all, and I've been a bit sensitive about battery cables and fuel lines ever since.

Thanks, deuce. I'm the original owner, and it's been an ongoing project ever since driving it home 30 years ago this past February. I'll list its current status as "semi-retired" (a 2008 Mustang GT is the new DD). Maybe I need to pull it apart and go through it one more time . . .
For some unknown reason I'm not getting notices of reply to topic, so I apologize for being a bit slow to acknowledge the compliment.

Norm

65 347 · #10 08-25-2009, 11:09 PM

Norm
Thanks for the help, I found plenty of space under the sill plate cover.
Mike