help with degreeing my cam

[scherp69]

I thought I'd start a new thread just so people will realize it's a new question. I've spent he past hour or so trying to figure out how to degree my cam. I have both heads off and am using this method: http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=805 It's posted a few times online, this was the easiest layout that I could find. It's just Car Crafts article on how to do it. I've gotten to the point where it says:

Comp Cams recommends checking cam position using the intake centerline method, which is pretty simple. First rotate the engine until the dial indicator reaches maximum lift and then zero the indicator. Turn the engine counterclockwise until the indicator reads 60 to 70 degrees on the opening side of the lobe. Now rotate the engine clockwise until the indicator reads 0.050 inch before max lift.

I'm don't understand why I need to turn it so the indicator reads 60-70 degrees.

I don't know if I was doing it right or not, but I was basically taking the readings on the wheel at .05 degrees on either side of max lift. The first time I did it, it gave me readings of 68 and 151 so a total of 219. When I divided by two, it gave me 109.5. My cam specs read 112 intake centre line. So does that mean that I have to move my crank two notches over then??? I'm so confused right now. What ever I do, I'm going to leave it until next week now as back to work in the am. In the meantime, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[scherp69]

I guess the other question I have....I bought a cheap Mr. Gasket degree wheel. Is it worth the money to buy the proper Comp Cams kit?

[camcojb]

they have you go backwards beyond 50 degrees so you're going clockwise (the direction the engine is normally running) when you're reading your numbers. This eliminates the slop in the timing chain from turning backwards and then going forward that would throw your readings off.

I've degreed with the small cheap wheels and they work, but I much prefer the larger diameter aluminum wheels; much easier to read and more accurate in my opinion; the larger the diameter the more accurate the markings will be.

[scherp69]

Originally Posted by camcojb

they have you go backwards beyond 50 degrees so you're going clockwise (the direction the engine is normally running) when you're reading your numbers. This eliminates the slop in the timing chain from turning backwards and then going forward that would throw your readings off.

I've degreed with the small cheap wheels and they work, but I much prefer the larger diameter aluminum wheels; much easier to read and more accurate in my opinion; the larger the diameter the more accurate the markings will be.

Thanks Jody. So basically I should always keep turning the engine over clock wise? Then once I have the lifter's max lift point, zero the dial and keep turning the engine over clockwise until I get 50 degrees on either side of the max lift? Does that make sense?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by scherp69

Thanks Jody. So basically I should always keep turning the engine over clock wise? Then once I have the lifter's max lift point, zero the dial and keep turning the engine over clockwise until I get 50 degrees on either side of the max lift? Does that make sense?

no, you can back up for the ramp side measurements, just make sure to go far enough past where you're going to measure from that you've taken the slack out of the chain when you reverse directions and go clockwise again. After finding and verifying TDC and setting the pointer/wheel to "0" I run the engine clockwise to max valve opening. I back it up counter-clockwise maybe half a turn down on the dial indicator (180 degrees) and then rotate clockwise to 50 degrees before max lift, record the reading, and continue on to 50 degrees after. From there adding the two numbers and dividing by two gets you the lobe center.

[scherp69]

Originally Posted by camcojb

no, you can back up for the ramp side measurements, just make sure to go far enough past where you're going to measure from that you've taken the slack out of the chain when you reverse directions and go clockwise again. After finding and verifying TDC and setting the pointer/wheel to "0" I run the engine clockwise to max valve opening. I back it up counter-clockwise maybe half a turn down on the dial indicator (180 degrees) and then rotate clockwise to 50 degrees before max lift, record the reading, and continue on to 50 degrees after. From there adding the two numbers and dividing by two gets you the lobe center.

I got it now. Thanks Jody. I'll try that on Tuesday when I get to head back out to the shop. So is that what they are doing when they mention in the article to go to 60-70 degrees and then back to 50 degrees?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by scherp69

I got it now. Thanks Jody. I'll try that on Tuesday when I get to head back out to the shop. So is that what they are doing when they mention in the article to go to 60-70 degrees and then back to 50 degrees?

yeah, they just want you to go back past where you'll be measuring, so all the slack is taken out when you go back clockwise to the measuring point.

[scherp69]

Thanks for the help Jody. It actually sounds a lot easier now.