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  #1  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:10 PM
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they have you go backwards beyond 50 degrees so you're going clockwise (the direction the engine is normally running) when you're reading your numbers. This eliminates the slop in the timing chain from turning backwards and then going forward that would throw your readings off.

I've degreed with the small cheap wheels and they work, but I much prefer the larger diameter aluminum wheels; much easier to read and more accurate in my opinion; the larger the diameter the more accurate the markings will be.
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Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
they have you go backwards beyond 50 degrees so you're going clockwise (the direction the engine is normally running) when you're reading your numbers. This eliminates the slop in the timing chain from turning backwards and then going forward that would throw your readings off.

I've degreed with the small cheap wheels and they work, but I much prefer the larger diameter aluminum wheels; much easier to read and more accurate in my opinion; the larger the diameter the more accurate the markings will be.
Thanks Jody. So basically I should always keep turning the engine over clock wise? Then once I have the lifter's max lift point, zero the dial and keep turning the engine over clockwise until I get 50 degrees on either side of the max lift? Does that make sense?
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Mike

Pro Touring 68 Acadian(Nova)
Speedtech subframe with high clearance control arms
Prodigy Bar rear suspension
Ridetech single adjustable coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" brakes
New Gen Splitters
LS3 and TKO600

Link to my build: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14349


Last edited by scherp69; 07-21-2011 at 05:16 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by scherp69 View Post
Thanks Jody. So basically I should always keep turning the engine over clock wise? Then once I have the lifter's max lift point, zero the dial and keep turning the engine over clockwise until I get 50 degrees on either side of the max lift? Does that make sense?
no, you can back up for the ramp side measurements, just make sure to go far enough past where you're going to measure from that you've taken the slack out of the chain when you reverse directions and go clockwise again. After finding and verifying TDC and setting the pointer/wheel to "0" I run the engine clockwise to max valve opening. I back it up counter-clockwise maybe half a turn down on the dial indicator (180 degrees) and then rotate clockwise to 50 degrees before max lift, record the reading, and continue on to 50 degrees after. From there adding the two numbers and dividing by two gets you the lobe center.
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2011, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
no, you can back up for the ramp side measurements, just make sure to go far enough past where you're going to measure from that you've taken the slack out of the chain when you reverse directions and go clockwise again. After finding and verifying TDC and setting the pointer/wheel to "0" I run the engine clockwise to max valve opening. I back it up counter-clockwise maybe half a turn down on the dial indicator (180 degrees) and then rotate clockwise to 50 degrees before max lift, record the reading, and continue on to 50 degrees after. From there adding the two numbers and dividing by two gets you the lobe center.
I got it now. Thanks Jody. I'll try that on Tuesday when I get to head back out to the shop. So is that what they are doing when they mention in the article to go to 60-70 degrees and then back to 50 degrees?
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Mike

Pro Touring 68 Acadian(Nova)
Speedtech subframe with high clearance control arms
Prodigy Bar rear suspension
Ridetech single adjustable coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" brakes
New Gen Splitters
LS3 and TKO600

Link to my build: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14349

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  #5  
Old 07-21-2011, 08:13 PM
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camcojb camcojb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scherp69 View Post
I got it now. Thanks Jody. I'll try that on Tuesday when I get to head back out to the shop. So is that what they are doing when they mention in the article to go to 60-70 degrees and then back to 50 degrees?
yeah, they just want you to go back past where you'll be measuring, so all the slack is taken out when you go back clockwise to the measuring point.
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2011, 08:13 AM
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scherp69 scherp69 is offline
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Thanks for the help Jody. It actually sounds a lot easier now.
__________________
Mike

Pro Touring 68 Acadian(Nova)
Speedtech subframe with high clearance control arms
Prodigy Bar rear suspension
Ridetech single adjustable coilovers
Wilwood 12.2" brakes
New Gen Splitters
LS3 and TKO600

Link to my build: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14349

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