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Old 03-24-2015, 09:34 AM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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Default Battery cable routing

Is this a good place or am I going to run into issues. Just want to check before a bolt them down.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:58 AM
rickpaw rickpaw is offline
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That's how I ran my cables too. So far no issues.

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Old 03-24-2015, 10:26 AM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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You just use cushion clamps to mount them?
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:48 PM
randy randy is offline
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instead of going thru the backseat I'm going to go towards the fender. Use a grommet to pass thru the area where the rear side window is and ill place the battery in the passenger rear
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:42 AM
rickpaw rickpaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
You just use cushion clamps to mount them?
Yes.
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:46 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Remember that stuff vibrates -- thus RUBS -- constantly while the car is in motion. On a Yacht - you must anchor wires every 6 inches... I pretty much use the same rule when doing automotive. The LAST thing you need is a hidden cable shorting out.

IF there is any metal near the piece (hot wires) I wrap the hot with extra abrasion protection. I also never just pass hot wires thru a body with or without a grommet. I use bulkhead fittings like the ones shown in picture.

Also -- not sure why you're running a ground cable like that. The body and chassis are "ground" --- so you could have saved yourself a lot of cable by just running the ground from the battery to a good spot (clean metal with star washers or a good welded stud) as close to the battery as you can (making it all look good and having some flexibility to move the battery with still being hooked up etc.

I then add a short piece of ground between the motor and chassis.... remembering that this needs to be able to handle 200+ amps... If you don't think you have a good enough contact between body and chassis - you can also add a short ground strap between the body and chassis.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:49 PM
JKnight JKnight is offline
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I like that the bulkheads you used don't seem to require a ginormous hole. What brand/source are they?
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:09 PM
cwylie cwylie is offline
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I got the kit from DSE. It came with enough to run both full length so I figured I would do it. I was also going to ground it to the chassis in the back.
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
I got the kit from DSE. It came with enough to run both full length so I figured I would do it. I was also going to ground it to the chassis in the back.
I have this kit coming as well, and was planning on running both positive and negative the full length. Being a uni body car I figured it was best, I am very weak in electrical knowledge, can anyone chime in on the matter. Is this normal practice or a waste of cable. Like cywlie said the kit comes with enough cable to do this. So no extra money is spent. Interested to hear what everyone else does too. thanks
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:37 PM
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A shorter ground is a happy ground. It is best practice to make the grounds as short as you can.
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