1968 roadrunner question on rear setup

[nazar]

I am going to start working on a 1968 roadrunner 383 car and had a question

Look at this website www.hotrod.com and look at the header, there is a creme roadrunner with some badass black wheels, sitting low

My question was on the rear end and tubbing it. DOes that car appeared to be tubbed? And if so, how do i figure out how much to tub it, and how to go about it? Do i just buy a rear end thats shorter? What happens to the rest of the suspension, do i have to relocate it??

I dont want a huge tub like those drag cars, just enough to clear say a 18x12 wheel in the rear. The fronts I am going to convert to a PTE coilover suspension with tubular control arms, however I have no idea how to go about the rear, but that car looks AMAZING and is exactly what direction I am going in.

ALso, as a bonus, does anyone know what wheels those are? I cant quiet tell

I want the rear to tuck and I know a wheel that big wont, I think the most you can stick under there is like a 9.5 wheel on a 275

I want a 12" wheel on 335s or so.

Thanks guys, cant wait to start working on it, my first project, im 22 Ive been in the import scene for a while building up my 2nd car, 99 eclipse gst with a fuly built motor making 420whp and complete suspension/wheel/tire/trany work but i have always wanted to build a badass hotrod, modern style that handles and goes

[nazar]

also does anyone know any good suspesion/drive train websites that sell mopar parts? PTE makes a front suspension kit with all new bushingsjoints/control arm/torsion bar or coilovers

I need to address the rear suspension and rearend

THe motor I am just going to buildup the 383 already in it, its healthy and already has a big cam

Mopar magazine made 460hp on a stock 383 with cam, headers, intake manifold and a demon carb..thats plenty, that with some nitrous is the way I am going to go to stay on a budget

[TravisB]

I believe that is a car called the Hammer built by Steve Strope. To minitub the rear we usually order the wheels I want with BS(back spacing) I want then cut the wheel tubs out until they fit build new wheel wells and then take a measurment and order a new rear diff or have the existing one shortened. A modification like this will require some suspension modifications as far as mounting pionts etc etc

[XcYZ]

Welcome Nazar. We need more Mopars and your project sounds great.

The process that Travis mentioned for the rear suspension is definitely the way to go. For the other questions, unfortunately, I'm not up on Mopars. I'm sure others here can give some insight.

[nazar]

Well, I think for a tire that wide the axle will have to be shortened.

I am assuming it has the 8 1/4" rearend in it, which if it does, I will keep it and just beef up the internals. I think the less powerful mopars came with the 7..." rear end, and the real beasts had the 8 3/4". I will just rebuild it and put a mopar diff into it along with gears.

The tranny is a 727 3 speed auto...is this a decent tranny to keep for a while and just put a shift kit in it and possibly a basic rebuild? I dont want to spend the extra money on a new badass tranny just yet, wanna get the car running well and rolling and some other stuff done first, if it aint broke, I dont wanna completely fix it just yet.

I will most likely need a leaf relocation kit, I will keep the leafs in the rear, add some traction bits, shocks, subframe connectors, and possibly a coilover kit in the front.

But for now I want to figure out the rear suspension and how to get a 18x12" wheel on a 335tire out back. The front I will do a 17x9" wheel, 275 tire if it fits.

I want to get a complete rolling chassis going and complete. The frame has been already taken off and powdercoated!! which is great. The body is straight because a body shop used to own it, they cut out the rust spots and its all in pretty good shape, ready to sand and paint.

[TravisB]

I think competition engineering makes leaf relocators.....moser could be probably help with narrowing the axle. What wheels are you wanting to go with?

[nazar]

thinking either kinesis or hre, some sort of clean, multispoke, polished lip, flat black spokes.

18x12 out back, 17x9 or so up front, ideally a 335 out back, 275 up front. I would love to go with a whole new front end kit with the new k member and all, but htats upwards of $4k...I think i will keep the stock one for now, and just do the coilover conversion as well as all new bushings/tie rods and tubular control arms.

I wonder if the fronts will clear as well?

Also, does anyone make specific 4 link for the rear? Or are they somewhat universal? I have access to all the tools in the world, welders, plasma cutters, steel, etc....so custom fabing up little things here and there aren't a huge problem

[TravisB]

none that I know of for a mopar.......fabbibg one shouldn't be too hard there are several parrallel 4 links that are universal.....the one from air ridetech comes to mind i'm sure others will have some options as well

[Mean 69]

We just bought a B-Body car for development purposes, and are basically begining the development of a three link kit derived largely from our F body. I expect to have a prototype in a couple of weeks, we committed to a customer that is doing a buildup for one of the larger supply houses, his car will be debuted in the March timeframe. Our car is a 1968 Satellite, and frankly is our first Mopar. I am super excited about the car, and from a cursory glance, it looks like there is TEMENDOUS room for improvement, both in the rear suspension, but more so in the front. We are working with the same customer on his next project, to do a full on front setup too. Anyway, I hope to have a rear kit out by the end of January, and the front stuff will likely be several months after that due to the relative complexity. Our website is still under construction, but if you are interested, you can shoot me a PM and I can send some photos over to you of our current kits, it will give you a good idea of what the Mopar setup will be like.

It looks to me that a 315 tire will potentially fit in the rear with a bit of modification to the inner fenderwell, there is a pretty significant space between the quarter and the inner, so our plan is to move the fenderwell outwards. I am hoping to get a 315 in the car without tubbing it. If I can't, well, then we'll be tubbing the car, and probably going bigger. It also looks like there is enough room in the front for a 275 as you stated, so it should look really mean. It is not so obvious about fitting a 335 back there, not without a tub deal, but it won't need much relative to other muscle cars in order to make it happen.

I was blown away to learn that the B-body cars are unibody. I already have a concept for a subframe connector, it should be simple to make out of 2.5" square tubing.

Cool cars, I am super excited to learn more about them and to work with other folks who love the cars. There is so little out there, I think we can help out a ton.

Mark

[Hooligan]

Nazar The car as mentioned above is Hammer the wheels are kinesis.

The stock rear end was either a mopar 8.5 or a dana 60. I know for a fact that you can fit 15x11 inch wheels in the back without tubbing, but that doesn't really help you all that much.