Evaluate my frame table!

[mitch_04]

Playing around with Sketchup and designing a frame table. It's a big 'un, 17' long, 6' wide, and 3' tall. 3X3 square tubing with 3/16 thickness. Main use will be for my '86 C10 (hence the length) but I'm sure it will be used for other projects down the road. Let me know what you think and ideas for improvement.

[dontlifttoshift]

You won't like the width. Both of mine are 5' x 16" and at times that is wider than I want it. If you use 4"x4"x1/4" on the main rails you won't need the trusses. Mine is 3/16 and I wish it was 1/4", it would take some of the "ring" out of it.

Here is a pic of mine, disregard chassis.


Three legs on each side and three main crossmembers welded in, the rest of the crossmember float so I can put them where I need them for whatever I am working on......or get them out of my way. The legs are built in two sections so I have two different heights available. Casters or adjuster pads are usable at either height.

Make it as simple and as universal as you can, that will ensure that it stays useful. Also remember that you will want to work under it so leave enough room that you can.

Another note on the truss work, the more you weld on the main rails the more likely it is to pull out of level.

One more thing, leave the ends open. My welded in crossmembers are 2 feet back from the end of the mainrails, someday you are going to want to put the motor in the chassis and that crossmember will be in your way.

[Sieg]

Good information and advice Donny.

[Revved]

Probably some of the best advice i've read about building a frame table. Thanks!

Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift

You won't like the width. Both of mine are 5' x 16" and at times that is wider than I want it. If you use 4"x4"x1/4" on the main rails you won't need the trusses. Mine is 3/16 and I wish it was 1/4", it would take some of the "ring" out of it.

Here is a pic of mine, disregard chassis.


Three legs on each side and three main crossmembers welded in, the rest of the crossmember float so I can put them where I need them for whatever I am working on......or get them out of my way. The legs are built in two sections so I have two different heights available. Casters or adjuster pads are usable at either height.

Make it as simple and as universal as you can, that will ensure that it stays useful. Also remember that you will want to work under it so leave enough room that you can.

Another note on the truss work, the more you weld on the main rails the more likely it is to pull out of level.

One more thing, leave the ends open. My welded in crossmembers are 2 feet back from the end of the mainrails, someday you are going to want to put the motor in the chassis and that crossmember will be in your way.

[raustinss]

Agree times two,beware thou if you leave the ends open and weld the second cross members tubes will pull into each other so either have a temporary piece in there just for the welding process or make it a bolt in crossmember

[mitch_04]

My thinking behind the 6'x17' frame table was so that I could mount the body and components where I wanted them at ride height, then build my frame around the components. The outside of the tires are roughly 6' and the front to back of the body is 17'.

I see what you are saying about the removable crossmembers, I had considered building some for resting where the components will go. IE one below the engine mounts, one below the tranny mount, etc etc.

I have been getting better at designing in Sketchup little by little, I'm starting to think I may be able to design the frame without having all the pieces assembled for a reference like I had originally planned.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

You can plate and have these sections bolt in instead of welded. Don's right it will pull it from level.