Best bolt in subframe for the money????

[x-tream]

For the money what is the best bolt in front sub frame for a 67-69 camaro. Perferably a hub to hub kit.

[lil427z]

www.martzchassis.net
is a good choise.
rick kirkindall

[Mean 69]

Currently, I'd say a modified stock frame, with well thought out parts that compliment the rear suspension. For now, anyway. The ATS solution holds a lot of promise, it improves some of the inherent geometry issues, and allows the use of contemporary brakes. You will get a ton of opinions on this and that, but at this point, I feel that a well executed stock unit will kepp up with, or out-do any of the aftermarket frames, for a fraction of the price. Pretty good value.

Mark

[Payton King]

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Everyone has different performance goals and budgets. I am using a 21st century subframe with C5 stuff. They are a sponsor on this site.

Payton

[TravisB]

Originally Posted by Payton King

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Everyone has different performance goals and budgets. I am using a 21st century subframe with C5 stuff. They are a sponsor on this site.

Payton

there set up does look very nice

[Steve1968LS2]

Best Subframe (IMO) - the 21st Century deal, a close second is Wayne Due

Best Subframe on a budget.. modified stock

"for the money" is such a relative term.. for the lowbuck approach you can't beat a well done stocker.. If you take $$$ out of the equation then see my first comment.

Also, there are several new front subs on the horizon from DSE, lateral dynamics and more.. but for now my statement stands

[XcYZ]

[Rob07002]

Originally Posted by Mean 69

Currently, I'd say a modified stock frame, with well thought out parts that compliment the rear suspension. For now, anyway. The ATS solution holds a lot of promise, it improves some of the inherent geometry issues, and allows the use of contemporary brakes. You will get a ton of opinions on this and that, but at this point, I feel that a well executed stock unit will kepp up with, or out-do any of the aftermarket frames, for a fraction of the price. Pretty good value.

Mark

How can you say a fraction of the price when if you add up the cost of parts a new aftermkt jambony looks to be the better deal:

Tubular uppers and lowers = $700 avg
Rack & Pinion = $800 avg
Brakes = $1100 - 1700 Baer track's or Wilwood's 6 piston
Time to perform g-mod = ????
Misc, Ball joints, hardware, motor mounts = $300

$2900 conservatively, $3500 with upgrades

Maybe I'm missing something, but for the money wouldn't one be better off going w a new frame, that improves geometry, allows for wider tires, that bolts up, in a nice complete package. Plus what if you just want to go aftermkt, wow factor, or if existing frame is damaged?

For what its worth, I'll be buying an aftermkt frame when the time comes, Any updates on the DSE or other units coming out.

My $.02

[907rs]

Until there is a definitive head to head comparison by a third party, I say you're on your own.

As of yet, I've only seen performance/road tests published for a couple of manufacturers.

[Steve1968LS2]

Originally Posted by 907rs

Until there is a definitive head to head comparison by a third party, I say you're on your own.

As of yet, I've only seen performance/road tests published for a couple of manufacturers.

Well we will be putting the 21st Century deal though the paces.. It came in the other day and it is one well made piece.. I will snap some pics.

As for the headers.. on the non lowered frame I don't see why you couldn't run your own headers or have some made. But they are NICE headers, stepped and equal length with nice collectors..

A head to head comparisson would never work unless it was done with the same car the same driver and the same everything cept the sub.. Not exactly an easy task to do (swapping frames at the track).. so many variables.

The best way is to outfit a car and run it though the cones..

And there is NOTHING wrong with a well done stock subframe..