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Old 01-17-2010, 03:38 PM
brans72 brans72 is offline
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Default Help me figure out a decent budget 350.

I am picking up a complete 350 engine next weekend from a buddy (wanna say mid 80's 2 bolt/will let you know when run some #'s) and this is a complete pull out that was in his grandfarthers 72 c10. I wanna build a engine on a budget/smart shopping etc using factory block and a set of vortec heads (not sure best year). I would like to have decent but nothing crazy cam and be able to get least 300-350 at back wheels. This is a engine that will be going in a 1967 swb C10 for my soon to be wife so relieable would be nice and some what friendly on gas. I am not drag racing or anything just cruiser and maybe some pulling with it from time to time. So any ideas from you guys on a combo? I will put the engine together myself and do get discount at many part stores/dealerships, but this is a budget. Thanks for the advice ahead of time. Brandon
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:55 PM
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Re use as many stock parts as you can like fasteners, accessories (water pump, oil pan,ect..)Crank and rods too!
Log onto Summit or Jegs and grab a stock rebuild kit based on your finished bore size, add a small RV type grind from one of the cam makers(with a lower operating range for torque), a fresh set of Vortech heads is a good idea look for a set off a 98-99 truck, add a Performer intake ansd a 600 vac secondary carb, headers and you are there. Cheap, reliable, decent MPG (considering it's a carbed V8).
I think your machine shop bill will be the single biggest expense.
You should be able to get 300-350 to the wheels no problem. It's the torque you want in a truck since you will be towing.

Let us know what you end up with.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:00 PM
brans72 brans72 is offline
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What about piston type? I have a buddy that will discount a little for me at the machine shop . I planned on reusing some parts but will replace water pump,fuel pump, oil pump,push rods and maybe few other things i missed. What size cam though? Anything else to look out for or take note on? What about balancing is this recomm on this setup?
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brans72 View Post
What about piston type? I have a buddy that will discount a little for me at the machine shop . I planned on reusing some parts but will replace water pump,fuel pump, oil pump,push rods and maybe few other things i missed. What size cam though? Anything else to look out for or take note on? What about balancing is this recomm on this setup?
You should balance the rotating assembly. I agree, replacing those things is cheap and may as well be done now.
I would just use some flat top pistons and keep the compression at or below 9.5:1. No need to go higher. The typical flat tops have valve relief cuts in them. Cast pistons are more than enough for this, but you could go to hyperutectic for a little extra cash.
When you start looking at heads do yourself a favor. Considering the age of the vortecs and that they may need full rebuilds it may be cheaper to just get a set of aftermarket iron heads assembled. Don't buy an intake untill you have heads. Check with the machine shop on what it will cost to FULLY rebuild heads then do some price checking on new heads, they have come WAY down. Even a set of stock replacement heads from Pace performance or Scoggin D chev might be a better bet than used ones.

EDIT: I will look up a few different cams fro you, but what kind of trans is going behind it?

Last edited by 70rs; 01-17-2010 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:46 PM
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Heads: You can get a brand new set of iron heads from Dart or World products assembled for 900-1300 bucks that will outflow the Vortecs by a long shot. And that is about what a fully rebuilt set of stockers will cost after parts and labor. Kind of a no brainer there.

Summit has an aluminum set for 949.00 fully assembled. Perfect for your application.


Cam: (find out what year block you have and if it has a factory roller cam in it.) If it is a flat tappet cam then one from Edelbrock out of the Performer Plus line #2102 would work great (example, duration @.050" is 204*/214* and lift is .420"/.442" and is rated from idle to 5500 rpm)130.00 bucks.
That would work great with the heads listed above and a standard performer intake and a 600cfm carb of your choice. And it comes with lifters too.

Rebuild kit: From Summit again but with Sealed Power and Fel-Pro parts, hyperutectic pistons with flat top and that give you a comp ratio of 9.35:1 with a 64cc chamber head (as the heads above have), it includes pistons, rings, all gaskets, oil pump,rod and main bearings, freeze plugs,assembly lube and plasigage. You can order it with oversize pistons as needed. This kit is more than enough to support the power level you want and it only costs270.00.
Ad in a decent double roller timing set and you are done with the long block for about $1,500.00 bucks plus machine work. Then your intake, carb, water pump, starter, distributor (which summit has cheap too) and you are all done for under 2500 bucks and have a stout, reliable small block.

Keep in mind for not much more in the bottom end you can make it a 383 and get A LOT more power and torque. It all depends on what you want and the budget you are working with.

Another option is a full top end kit from Edelbrock. For about 1700.00 you get aluminum heads, intake, cam, lifters, gaskets, fasteners(head and intake bolts). Add your bottom end kit above and you are still at only 2k for the long block and it is rated at 410hp with this combo. Get a timing set, carb and distributor and your done.

Last edited by 70rs; 01-17-2010 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:04 PM
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Build it as a 383......not much more $$ and well worth it.....you can get more "bang for the buck" in terms of HP/TQ...
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