Help me figure out a decent budget 350.

[brans72]

What about piston type? I have a buddy that will discount a little for me at the machine shop . I planned on reusing some parts but will replace water pump,fuel pump, oil pump,push rods and maybe few other things i missed. What size cam though? Anything else to look out for or take note on? What about balancing is this recomm on this setup?

[70rs]

Originally Posted by brans72

What about piston type? I have a buddy that will discount a little for me at the machine shop . I planned on reusing some parts but will replace water pump,fuel pump, oil pump,push rods and maybe few other things i missed. What size cam though? Anything else to look out for or take note on? What about balancing is this recomm on this setup?

You should balance the rotating assembly. I agree, replacing those things is cheap and may as well be done now.
I would just use some flat top pistons and keep the compression at or below 9.5:1. No need to go higher. The typical flat tops have valve relief cuts in them. Cast pistons are more than enough for this, but you could go to hyperutectic for a little extra cash.
When you start looking at heads do yourself a favor. Considering the age of the vortecs and that they may need full rebuilds it may be cheaper to just get a set of aftermarket iron heads assembled. Don't buy an intake untill you have heads. Check with the machine shop on what it will cost to FULLY rebuild heads then do some price checking on new heads, they have come WAY down. Even a set of stock replacement heads from Pace performance or Scoggin D chev might be a better bet than used ones.

EDIT: I will look up a few different cams fro you, but what kind of trans is going behind it?

[70rs]

Heads: You can get a brand new set of iron heads from Dart or World products assembled for 900-1300 bucks that will outflow the Vortecs by a long shot. And that is about what a fully rebuilt set of stockers will cost after parts and labor. Kind of a no brainer there.

Summit has an aluminum set for 949.00 fully assembled. Perfect for your application.


Cam: (find out what year block you have and if it has a factory roller cam in it.) If it is a flat tappet cam then one from Edelbrock out of the Performer Plus line #2102 would work great (example, duration @.050" is 204*/214* and lift is .420"/.442" and is rated from idle to 5500 rpm)130.00 bucks.
That would work great with the heads listed above and a standard performer intake and a 600cfm carb of your choice. And it comes with lifters too.

Rebuild kit: From Summit again but with Sealed Power and Fel-Pro parts, hyperutectic pistons with flat top and that give you a comp ratio of 9.35:1 with a 64cc chamber head (as the heads above have), it includes pistons, rings, all gaskets, oil pump,rod and main bearings, freeze plugs,assembly lube and plasigage. You can order it with oversize pistons as needed. This kit is more than enough to support the power level you want and it only costs270.00.
Ad in a decent double roller timing set and you are done with the long block for about $1,500.00 bucks plus machine work. Then your intake, carb, water pump, starter, distributor (which summit has cheap too) and you are all done for under 2500 bucks and have a stout, reliable small block.

Keep in mind for not much more in the bottom end you can make it a 383 and get A LOT more power and torque. It all depends on what you want and the budget you are working with.

Another option is a full top end kit from Edelbrock. For about 1700.00 you get aluminum heads, intake, cam, lifters, gaskets, fasteners(head and intake bolts). Add your bottom end kit above and you are still at only 2k for the long block and it is rated at 410hp with this combo. Get a timing set, carb and distributor and your done.

[DRJDVM's '69]

Build it as a 383......not much more $$ and well worth it.....you can get more "bang for the buck" in terms of HP/TQ...

[thedude327]

For an engine going into a pickup, I'd also recommend going with a 383 as it would provide plenty of torque and HP for that application. Also, be careful with used rods as they probably will ,at the least, need to be reconditioned or you could end up with a spun rod bearing. Probably would be cheapest to buy a rotating assembly kit which includes crank, rods and pistons. I agree with 70RS that a smaller duration cam oh around 224 @ .050 with a lift between .480 and .520 would work great with this combo, but you need to make sure your valve springs are up to the amount of lift your using so it may be cheaper in the long run to go with aftermarket heads. Also a good dual-plane intake for a street driven cruiser is the way to go. The taller dualplanes have longer runners which also helps with the torque. A 700 cfm holley is about perfect sized for this combo. Still would like to know what trans and rear gear your running for building a matched combo.

Paul

[ccracin]

If you are going to put new crank rods and pistons in it, you can build the 383 for the SAME money! Look at Scat parts. Nice stuff for the money. The cast crank is under $200. Fine for your power level.

Good luck.

[1969x11]

I say do a cammed 5.3 they can be found for under 500 bucks on car-part.com. They already got great flowing heads and they are tough as nails.