Orange Peel

[Ron Fox]

But in general is thinner paint better than thicker paint when it is applied to the car?

[GM Muscle]

it would be better to do 4 medium to light coats than to do 2 heavy coats if thats what you are asking..

[Ron Fox]

Yes, thanks GM.

[FlameBroiled]

Paint thickness is measured in mils or thousandths of an inch. OEM paints are typically 4 to 8 mils thick. With basecoat/clearcoats, the basecoat is approximately 1 to 2 mils thick, which is approximately the thickness of a piece of typing paper. The clearcoat is about 2 to 4 mils thick. The primer is another 1 to 2 mils.

If a panel has been repainted, paint thickness will increase. If too much paint is already on the vehicle, it may have to be removed prior to refinishing. Paint buildup should be limited to no more than 12 mils. The OEM finish and one refinish usually equal just under 12 mils. Exceeding this paint thickness could cause cracking in the new finish. Chemical stripping or blasting would be needed to remove the old paint buildup.

I hope this answers your question.

In short when applying base coats, your coats are not heavy wet coats, they should be medium coats, repeated until you have achieved coverage, and a consistant look. What I mean by that is you have to be cafeful when spraying any metallics so that you do not end up with Tiger Stripes, or Paint Mottling.

Clear coat is to be sprayed medium to wet coats, but this is where the fine line comes in, you want to spray clear to the point of running, but not running. You have to push the limit.
Reducers and spray technique play a huge roll in painting a car or any part of a car, practice, practice, and good quality paint are key to having a great paint job.

The idea of clear coating a car, letting it dry, resanding it in 600/800 grit to flatten the flutter out of the panel, is the way to achieve a stunning paint job. It can be done with out this process, but when you are painting a custom paint job IE: Kandy, Metal Flake, Crushed Glass, it is a must to level the paint out for that show room finish.

The reclear will take a few more hours, and cost more, do to the added hours of sanding, masking and painting. But it is well worth the end result.

Just my 2 cents.

Aaron

[GM Muscle]

agreed... but i wouldnt let the 12mil thing scare you.. its like any text book.. thats the standard for the cars that follow gravel trucks and drive long hauls at night with grasshoppers and have little kids with bicycles around them! haha.. its just like anything else in this world.. if its special, take care of it and it will last! you also have to concider on primers and stuff that you are sanding a lot of it back off to level it out..

[FlameBroiled]

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

[Ron Fox]

Considering orange peel, is it best to leave a small amount that is not so noticeable or to go ahead and spend the time and money to get the orange peel free paint job?

Will other blemishes show up in the paint if there is no orange peel?

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by FlameBroiled

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

well put

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by Ron Fox

Considering orange peel, is it best to leave a small amount that is not so noticeable or to go ahead and spend the time and money to get the orange peel free paint job?

Will other blemishes show up in the paint if there is no orange peel?

you need to differentiate between texture and orange peel. texture is what you would see in a new factory car. orange peel will look like... well, the peel of an orange. its a lot worse situation that just texture from spraying.

honestly if the painter is decent there shouldnt be any "orange peel" you may notice a tad bit of texture but look at any factory car, they have texture but are shiney when going down the road and no one complains.. if you have the time to wetsand and polish the entire car then by all means go for the show finish. if you plan on parking at walmart and local diners i wouldnt waste my time. i would make sure the car is super straight before paint, make sure the painter took his time, and denib any trash nibs then drive it. the first time some one door dings your 100hrs worth the sanding and buffing your going to have a heart attack so just make sure its straight and shiney.. show car finishes arent for cars that will be driven everywhere...

what color you go with will also make a difference. red, yellow, white(brighter colors) are going to really hide alot of flaws and imperfections in the clear. darker colors are really going to show them. you just have to decide what level of perfection youre going to be satisified with and go from there. determine whether this is going to be your show car or your baby.. or just a driver for you to enjoy..

[elitecustombody]

Originally Posted by FlameBroiled

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

You're right, that P30 is amazing, also if you haven't noticed,it's very flexible,feathers like nothing else and it's so easy to sand,but I guess that's what you'd expect form $400+ per gallon primer