I like your setup with the proportioning valve mounted by the master. Were those lines prebent or did you bend them yourself? That's the exact same master I am using. Thanks in advance
Car is looking great! Love your attention to detail. One note on that clutch switch, I am using a relay also, I wasn't sure how many amps that small switch could hold up to. Might get a way with running it in series with the started solenoid however I am only using the switch to trigger the relay. And the relay is only powered from the solenoid wire so it is not trigger every time I shift. Only in crank position.
The Following User Says Thank You to kevin_l For This Useful Post:
Mc1984ss, I made all the lines except the two short ones from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. They came with the port. Valve kit. If I recall correctly I reversed them and tweaked them a little. I extended the mounting bracket.
Kevin_l , Thanks for the kind words and for the information, that helps a lot.
So quick question. How do you like the Nicop brake lines. I was considering building my lines with Nicop but ended up using steel lines ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64G-lark
While working with the Nicop for the brake lines I made a crossover for the two back steam ports. I drilled and tapped the factory block off ports to accept the line.
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__________________ marty-mj
Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage
Marty, I really like them. I forget who, but someone on the boards turned me onto them on my last project. I was struggling with stainless steel. I have never used normal steel lines due to the corrosion issues, but the stainless steel lines are much harder to work with. Stainless is hard on flaring tools, doesn’t seal as well, work hardens, and is pretty much one shot and your done. If you decide to use it I would recommend getting a good brand ( SUR&R). There are a lot of cheap brands on Amazon that don’t have consistent wall thickness and some are higher copper content.
Incredible thread Mark. Really enjoying all the details and photos. These are the things we never get to see and appreciate when looking at a finished car. Thank You!
__________________ Curtis
Pilots: We're not better than you, just way cooler.
My original core support was in horrible shape. It had been hacked up, and patched to many times. I ordered a Goodmark replacement. The opening in the stock support is fairly small at 21” wide. I have seen a lot of folks just cut the opening larger, but it just never looks finished. I also wanted to fill a lot of holes I don’t plan to use and get rid of the dimpled area for the original radiator cap.
I laid out a plan to cut out sections to increase the opening while retaining the original flange. I was able to increase the opening to 24” wide. I’m still working on my welding skills but overall I was pleased.