More updates.... I swear this build is going to be longer than Marty's Truck! After a long cold wet winter, I've finally gotten back on my project. I trailered the car to my local shop to check sqaureness and Alignment shortly after the first post. It came in 1/16 of being perfectly square, so I'm happy with how the suspension is turning out. Alignment specs are right where I wanted them, from +1 to -5 camber and Minimal Bump Steer. I pulled the motor and trans back out and am now doing the brake plumbing and smoothing the firewall. All the rear brake lines are done as well as the master cylinder, prop valve and the new Hydraulic Clutch assembly. I cut the old beat up firewall out and I'm going to make a new smoother piece. I'm also going to relief the section behind the motor about 1.5" for additional clearance. (the motor is set back about an 1 from stock) I'm not happy at all with the motor mounts, so I'm going to cut them out and make a new set with 1 3/4 DOM tubing, extending up to the shock mounts for additional support on the suspension.
The last pic shows why I havn't been working on the car as much as I should, I've developed this nasty racing habit that I can't kick...
Sorry to disappoint you guys with the pictures but the Bikini babe is gone, My wife said I couldn't keep her when she moved back in the house this fall.
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No Shop, No Money, No Time.... No problem!
I just noticed that it was stated that the rear end should have been up higher and I have to say that it is several inches of from the stock ride height angles.
The other thing I noticed is that the square mounts on the top outer mounting bolts are not being used. The way they are supposed to be supported is by the bolcks on the frame and the batwing bolts to the bushings are centered under a load otherwise you will compress the bushing all of the time eventually distorting it and making it loose. Paying close attention to the way the factory did things is very important and some parts are there for a very good reason even though it will work without them for awhile.
There are lots of details that will come up and the solutions are out there but you have to decide if you can afford them or not.
Custom offset wheels will make or break the way you build this and the way it looks or you are stuck with a lot of compromises. $3-$5k worth of wheels can remedy a lot clearance issues.
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May the Horsepower Be With You !!!!
Ok, it's been forever but I'm still building this car. Decided to go over to the LS1 camp and upgrade with new stuff. Here's some picks on the gas tank mods, More to follow
More updates, worked on the fuel tank today, major PIA gotta find 1/4" somewhere to take out the the assembly.
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No Shop, No Money, No Time.... No problem!
Mill's looking good.Will have some this week to bend your sway bar arm's and ship them to you.This traveling has killed me for getting anything done.Scott
I love this mod. Like you, I've got more time than money so I'm willing to tackle something like this fuel take project. What did the fuel module come from? Any tips you can pass along?
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Originally Posted by Beach Cruiser
Ok, it's been forever but I'm still building this car. Decided to go over to the LS1 camp and upgrade with new stuff. Here's some picks on the gas tank mods, More to follow
More updates, worked on the fuel tank today, major PIA gotta find 1/4" somewhere to take out the the assembly.
Fuel pump assembly is from a 99-2002 F-body. Tips? after I welded it all up, I etched the inside and coated it with some sort of resin, but I'm not sure what it is. There are companies that sell a fuel tank restore kit and that's what I used. Coating will seal any pit holes that you missed on the weld. Good Luck! it's tedious cutting down the pump, but it will fit you just have to be clever about it. Get the whole tank so you can cut out the locking ring. Tanks are plastic, so cut it out and then use a wire wheel or something to get down to the metal.
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No Shop, No Money, No Time.... No problem!