as mentioned the A-arms themselves will not change bump steer or neg. camber gain unless the pivot to ball joint points have been changed and the length of the upper arms has been changed, remember that second gns already have "tall spindles" no real reason to change them, we have a Comp upper control arm and tall ball joint that will correct most of the second gen's short commings, the second gen has very good geometry to start with and only needs small changes to make it better.
The stock lower arms can be retained but should get solid bushings, either Delrin or sphericals but should get some welded braces to limit flex we do have a new lower control arm that is designed to limit flex, has 2* built in caster and saves 3 lbs over stock.
I have a 78 camaro and am currently doing some of the same things. I went with the qa1 coilover setup, the scandc stage 1 kit with the howe tall upper ball joints tubular lower control arms and the true steer kit from pro-touring fbody. there are tons of options out there and I looked at them extensively to get what I wanted.
For me alot of it went on what I could get in my budget and what I liked about certain products. I really liked the spc control arms because of the adjustability without shims but they do have an industrial look. personally I like that about them. SCandC.com is a sponsor here and marcus is extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Dave at protouring fbody was also extremely helpful he is a sponsor here also. That is not to say it's the best option for you just the way I went. That is one of the best things about this site is that you can talk with alot of the vendors and they are usually very helpful.
If I would have known that killer customs would give a package with control arms and coilover's I may have went that route to save some bucks also.
If you do a search on nastyz28.com there are tons of posts about what other people have done on there second gen's and that may be helpful also.
As a few others have already said, the 2nd Gen already features drastically improved geometry compared to the 1st gen cars. Our new Hotchkis 2nd Gen Lower A-Arms feature repositioned ball joints for increased caster and improved camber curve. Our arms also have a CNC cut billet spring cup that's integrated into the structure of the arm and fully TIG welded for improved rigidity to prevent deflection.
Hotchkis 2nd gen Tubular Upper A-Arms increase caster and camber gain and the offset cross-shaft allows increased static negative camber without a large alignment shim stack.
Here's a video of an '80 T/A with all our parts (TVS, Subframe Connectors and Upper/Lower A-Arms) in action during testing at California Speedway.
You could also increase Camber gain (in bump) a number of ways with the upper control arms too- shortening or lowering their inboard pickup points. It becomes more complicated when the car goes into roll, but more caster will also help your camber on the loaded tire...
We move the upper ball joints back for more caster. We also shortened the upper arm for a quicker camber curve. We lengthen the lower arm slightly for more static neg camber and less arc during travel. This combination produces excellent neg camber gain as the suspension travels up.
With stock upper and lower a-arms, we are barely able to get -0.5° of camber and +2° of caster with shims maxed out. With our Hotchkis A-arms, we can easily get -3° of camber and +6° of caster with room to adjust.
For street applications, we typically set up then 2nd gens with (-1° to -1.5°) of camber and +5° of caster. For autocross or track we set the camber anywhere from (-2° to -3°) and (+5° to +7°) of caster. These settings vary based on the current modifications that are already done on the car.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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