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  #1  
Old 07-21-2010, 06:01 PM
78 typelt 78 typelt is offline
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great work
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:04 PM
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toddshotrods toddshotrods is offline
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Thanks 78.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:46 AM
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Really cool project. What are the specs on that GE electric motor?
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Project update thread here:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=12743

My Lateral-G Page

My Shop Build:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=16310
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwhite692 View Post
Really cool project. What are the specs on that GE electric motor?
Thanks.

It's an 11" (dia) motor from a Hyster forklift. Underwhelming stock specs are:

DC 36/48 volts
14.00 KW
RPM 1000
60 Min Duty Cycle
Class H Insulation
330 Amps

It's currently wound SepEx (separately excited armature and field), but I will be converting to series wound field coils. I'll probably swap in a set of refurbished field coils initially, but the plan is to custom wind a set for this application. It should turn 5-6K, and put out around 500hp/1000ft-lbs. The ultimate battery pack will be 330v/2070amps, and the motor will be built to make use of that. The controller is a new one coming out (currently in development) with 500v/2500amp max numbers. That battery pack is actually capable of supporting over 900hp, but I don't think my motor will be capable of that.
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Last edited by toddshotrods; 07-22-2010 at 09:36 AM. Reason: typos and clarity
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:36 AM
strtcar strtcar is offline
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Wow, really neat project. Keep the updates coming.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by strtcar View Post
Wow, really neat project. Keep the updates coming.
Thanks strtcar!

I've been working on plans and design stuff and I am really happy with how things are working out. I have countless hours in little details that will show up later in the build.

I figured out today that my plan to hide the roll cage in plain sight is working perfectly. I think I can get the rear down down tubes to pass inside the main body, meaning they won't be hanging out in mid-air going from the main hoop into the bed. From first glance, you'll be able to pick up clues that there is a full cage, and find more and more of it as you look deeper. The front bars will be exposed (running on either side of the motor), the rear down tubes will be visible inside the bed poking out of the body (when you get close enough to see in it), and a little of the front hoops running down behind the windshield posts will be seen. Just enough combined with the wheel/tire combo, and IFS, to let people know that there's something more sinister going on.
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Last edited by toddshotrods; 07-22-2010 at 02:31 PM. Reason: typo
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2010, 03:57 AM
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MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
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Cool project.

Maybe you already stated this, but what kind of batteries are you going to use? How many or what size will they be?

Any idea on milage range between charges?
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:03 PM
mrbigblock mrbigblock is offline
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interesting,nice detail
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  #9  
Old 03-23-2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikLS2 View Post
Man, what an interesting project, can't wait to follow this one...
Anyway, killer project, good luck with it!
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Originally Posted by geberhard View Post
This is all kinds of bad ass, would be cool to beat a Tesla and I see plenty of them around here
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Originally Posted by mrbigblock View Post
interesting,nice detail
Thanks guys! I can't wait to get further into the build to share some of the little details of the project.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikLS2 View Post
...Are you having a controller for all that electrical power custom made? I've done some work on hybrid vehicle systems at 280V and even with all their safe power down procedures, I still get a little nervous. Nothing to mess around with...
Yeah, these voltage levels demand respect. I grew up in a carpentry/light construction family and working on 110 & 220 live was second nature, but the idea of 300-400 volts gets your attention.

There is one controller currently available, called a Zilla, that is what all the fastest EV racers are using. The best version of it will do 360-375v/2000amps, but production has been on-again/off-again. There's a company in Florida that has been toying with the idea of building a real monster of a race controller, but no firm commitments from them yet. I was actually in talks with them about having the first one on this project (their idea), but am not really sure what's going on with that. Having a custom piece built is always an option.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikLS2 View Post
...How hard would it be to convert that motor to a generator for the battery on braking like a hybrid?...
My motor can actually do regen, but none of the current medium and high power controllers have this feature. It's ridiculously complicated to accomplish with the type of DC motor the racers are using, and motors like mine have to have a controller custom programmed for them. I have some tricks up my sleeve, using two separate controllers, and if that doesn't work I will eventually switch to the standard series-wound DC motor and a conventional controller. That would mean no regen. If my ideas actually worked, it would be theoretically possible for me to have regen with this separately-excited (SepEx) motor. Only time will tell...

It's really simple in principle. The motor becomes a generator when you put your foot on the brakes and, depending on how much regen you have set, size of the motor, size/rate/capacity of the battery pack, it can just add a little boost to the braking power or pull you to a halt like a parachute opened. It's all electronic, no hydraulics.


More to come...
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:11 PM
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Nice Go-Kart dude!

EEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAA
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