Nova Disc brake conversion - easiest bolt on kit

[MC71Nova]

So what do you have into the whole setup? I assume you need a new master cylinder even if you already have power drums, right? Do those vette brakes move the wheels out?

[OnEdge]

I don't have the master cylinder yet. I will more than likely make my own bracket for the calipers for the front and back. I got a set of front and back off an 07 vette for $400. By the time it is all said and done I believe that I will have way less than $1k in brakes. Now these are all stock parts but for my plans they will be more than enough for the plans for my Nova. There are many articles on making this swap. What are you other plans for you Nova. If you need any help with budget ideas you can alway PM me.

Ryan

[MC71Nova]

Thanks for the ideas. The fabbing of brackets is beyond my ability and tools, unfortunately, but it looks like you can buy the brackets from other suppliers. I'd really like to get a complete kit if I can though rather than try to piece everything together myself. Just seems like you'd run a better chance of everything fitting and working together without issues.

[Apogee]

Originally Posted by MC71Nova

So what do you have into the whole setup? I assume you need a new master cylinder even if you already have power drums, right? Do those vette brakes move the wheels out?

Almost every aftermarket kit I can think of is going to push your wheels out to varying degrees. In fact, the factory GM OE disc brakes push out the wheel mounting surfaces by 7/16" per side, worse than many of the aftermarket kits that are based on or around the relative flange position of the Chevy drum hubs. The kits that are based on the drum hubs will increase the track width by the difference in the thickness of the hat of the drum versus the disc. In the case of a C4/C5/C6 type kit, that difference is +.20" per side.

You've made no mention of the size/type/brand wheels that you're running, but your least expensive brake option is typically the one that doesn't require new wheels and tires. Post up what you're running in the wheel department and that should immediately rule in or out some of your options.

HTH,
Tobin
KORE3

[MC71Nova]

I'm running 17 x 8 American Racing CL 205s. Or will be once Brownz mails them to me! 235s in front and 255s in the rear. I'd like to lower it 2" from stock but will mount the wheels first to see what clearance I have first. I'd be willing to go narrower on the front tires to get the car lower.

[MC71Nova]

Sorry, had that completely wrong. The fronts are 18*7 with 4.5 back space with a 235-35 tire and the rear are are 18*8 with 5.25 back space with a 255/40 rear tires, the tires are sumitomo HTRZ 2

[Mrfixit]

On the front, I'm using C5 hat style 13" rotors and calipers with the Speed Tech (http://www.speedtechperformance.com) caliper adapter (slick part for $189). If you don't go for the slotted/dimples rotors and are satisfied by stockers, the factor rotors are cheap. Look at your local Auto Zone (etc). All that should fit nicely behind your 18" wheels. I got the calipers (rebuilt) off of ebay for cheap.

The rears can be handled in different ways. I used a 1989 Corvette/Camaro/Firebird style caliper with an integrated parking brake and 11.25" (I think) rotors. I modified the factory caliper bracket by re-drilling the mounting holes to fit my 9" and used spacers (washers) to center the caliper. Again, ebay parts with cheap factory rotors.

So far I'm at about $600-700. I still need to buy and install the parking brake cables, hard brake lines, flex lines, master cylinder, booster, and proportioning valve. I'm hoping to have around $1000-$1200 total in it when I'm done.

I've done a lot of work and head scratching to get this far. A complete kit will be a lot more money but would make it so much simpler. If you don't have the ability to make stuff yourself, I'd highly recommend you save the money and buy a complete kit.

I hope that was of some use to you.

[MC71Nova]

Yes, that did help, thanks! I'm actually zeroing in on a more expensive option I think, with AFX spindles and the SSBC brakes that are made for them. Just one thing I'm confused about. If I go with that setup and I already have power drums, do I need to change out my master cylinder? What if I just do the fronts and leave the rears for a while until I switch rears... do I need to change the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve out too?

[Mrfixit]

Originally Posted by MC71Nova

Yes, that did help, thanks! I'm actually zeroing in on a more expensive option I think, with AFX spindles and the SSBC brakes that are made for them. Just one thing I'm confused about. If I go with that setup and I already have power drums, do I need to change out my master cylinder? What if I just do the fronts and leave the rears for a while until I switch rears... do I need to change the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve out too?

I'd be interested in hearing opinions on this question as well. I know that replacement MC come as drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc so there must be a difference. regardless, unless your running a prefab front and rear system designed specifically for your car, you'll need to use an adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the front-to-rear bias.