1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2

[Vegas69]

If you can lock the fronts, you should be able to lock the rears...

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

If you can lock the fronts, you should be able to lock the rears...

Haven't been able to lock the fronts yet... maybe I need to get back on those calf raises.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Haven't been able to lock the fronts yet... maybe I need to get back on those calf raises.

Seriously -- I wouldn't be tracking the car if you can't make the brakes work beyond tire grip... you're asking for trouble.

Another ASSumable question. Did anyone BED the pads in? And do the brakes work better after you put some heat in them?

That last question is most important... because if they don't... you'll be having one of those off track excursions that nobody wants.

[Vegas69]

I agree, you should be able to achieve front lock up unless your master cylinder is way oversize. Like 1 1/8.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Seriously -- I wouldn't be tracking the car if you can't make the brakes work beyond tire grip... you're asking for trouble.

Another ASSumable question. Did anyone BED the pads in? And do the brakes work better after you put some heat in them?

That last question is most important... because if they don't... you'll be having one of those off track excursions that nobody wants.

Yeah we need to get this figured out by next week!

I wouldn't I EXACTLY followed this bedding procedure on the Wilwood pads that came with my new rear disc kit, but have done a variation of it. :/

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPadBedTip.aspx

Another thing is the front Wilwood discs and Brand ?? pads were on the car when I got them and we have never even inspected them. I remember talking about doing that and I was considering getting better pads recently but caught up with motor stuff and just haven't gotten to it. And now here we are less than 2 weeks from Go time.

Honestly I haven't done enough brake testing to know if they get better or not with more heat. We have been playing and adjusting numerous things at all once unfortunately. Not ideal I know, but it's how it has gone.

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I agree, you should be able to achieve front lock up unless your master cylinder is way oversize. Like 1 1/8.

We really need to pull the MC on the car and see what heck it is.

Thanks to both of ya for looking out. Most of this stuff is all new for me.

P.S. is it worth it, and/or even too late now, to follow that pad bedding procedure to the tee?

[Vegas69]

If you haven't induced front lock up, you really don't know if your proportioning valve is adjusted correctly. Before you do anything, take it back out and stomp on the brakes going 60. The fronts should lock up even cold. Just don't flat spot your tires. You need to figure out your threshold braking anyway.

[Flash68]

10-4 I'm on it!

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

If you haven't induced front lock up, you really don't know if your proportioning valve is adjusted correctly. Before you do anything, take it back out and stomp on the brakes going 60. The fronts should lock up even cold. Just don't flat spot your tires. You need to figure out your threshold braking anyway.

Well during a window of dry weather today Rich was able to go out and hammer the brakes and they did lock up. (Guess I was being a sally. ) No lock up from the rear but the fronts did. So if that's the case with the prop valve set at max, we could have a larger than optimal MC bore size. Of course, as you said, the pads could be a factor as well. Will check that out tmrw.

Oh, I did find out I have a 16 gallon fuel cell when all along I thought (and was told) it was a 12 gallon. That's good news for the road trip!

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Most of this stuff is all new for me.

Your time spent with the M3 and the P-car...known now as 'The lost years'.