Twin turbo build help..

[Jr]

What about the crazy high incoming air temps associated with eaton style blowers? What is the fix for getting the IAT numbers down? And heat soak?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by DJW32

What about the crazy high incoming air temps associated with eaton style blowers? What is the fix for getting the IAT numbers down? And heat soak?

The heat management issues with turbos will be as big or probably a bigger problem than IAT's with a blower. I know Mark Stielow's latest car had very good IAT's in real world conditions.

[John510]

Turbos are way more bad ass though!

[PTAddict]

Turbo or blower, I'd get that compression lowered. We've built a couple of blower setups on top of stock LS6 motors (10.5 compression), and max power was seriously limited by the amount of timing we could use before hitting knock retard. With ~6 PSI boost, we were hitting knock retard at just 9 degrees advance at max volumetric efficiency (in the 3500-4500 RPM range). Just my opinion, I'd shoot for about 9.5 (which, incidentally, is about where the LSA and LS9 are).

That brings up another point, which is that I'd use an ECU which has provision for knock sensing, like a GM, Mast, or Holley. Detonation can destroy a boosted motor very quickly, and you don't want to worry about a tank of bad gas causing 5 digit rebuild costs. With knock sensing, you can tune less conservatively and still be more protected.

[Jr]

Originally Posted by camcojb

The heat management issues with turbos will be as big or probably a bigger problem than IAT's with a blower. I know Mark Stielow's latest car had very good IAT's in real world conditions.

Jody,
Marks setup has had hours of dyno testing to get it where it's at. Plus, the cost of a Thompson built motor vs a ls with a magnacharger on top is a night and day difference in performance, engineering, and IAT numbers

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by DJW32

Jody,
Marks setup has had hours of dyno testing to get it where it's at. Plus, the cost of a Thompson built motor vs a ls with a magnacharger on top is a night and day difference in performance, engineering, and IAT numbers

I understand that. I would look at more than just air temps when picking a forced induction direction. They all have advantages and disadvantages.

[gnx7]

Look up the gearing in that GTO transmission. It isn't the best for a turbo setup IMO. the 2.66 1st gear style '98-02 Fbody transmissions would be better or if you can afford it a new T56 Magnum which is 10x better in all ways.

A stock pre '05 engine has LS1 style rods which are good to around 550-600rwhp before they bend. With a perfect tune it will last.... but in the end the rods will bend. LS2 style rods seem to be good to around 800-900rwhp.

A stock intake and TB will meet your power goals easily. A single turbo would meet your goals easily but twins are aesthetically more pleasing... and more $.

If you don't plan to AutoX or Road race your car you probably don't really need the aluminum block. Crunching the numbers with the power you want... it may be best to sell that LS1 instead of building it up... and get an '05+ style engine.

[TurboBu]

6.0 truck heads, arp or eBay studs, ls9 gaskets, mid to upper 22x°@.050" 114° lsa cam with good springs and a pair of 5858 provisions. it' 'll have way more power than a roots and be just as responsive. PM 417 Motorsports on here it you decide to go turbo.

[Zspoiler]

You need to lower the compression to no higher than 8:1 . No higher otherwise you will have to run race gas.I would use a Blower/Turbocharger piston,with a strong bottom end. Good set of heads

[TurboBu]

8:1 compression is for dinosaur engines oe iron headed sbc and bbc with bad combustion chamber designs. LSX engine will be a slug on the bottom end like that