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Old 06-30-2013, 04:55 PM
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Rob,

Nice job on the wiring job! I know 20 yr aircraft mech that can't wire that good!

I will have to dig up a tool I have here at work that will make that a TON easier, I will see it I can dig it up and post some pics!
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:24 PM
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Looking good Rob, There's nothing like watching a lil TV and building your car from your Lazy boy!!
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:32 PM
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Nice work buddy!

That's my idea of a fun task.
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Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal View Post
Very nice Rob. Love that wire tool!
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Nice Rob, can never be to safe!! I haven't looked but where did you get those nice safety wire pliers? I'm loving all the details you are showing, and your pictures are looking better as well!
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Looking good Rob, There's nothing like watching a lil TV and building your car from your Lazy boy!!
Thanks If I had to do this for a living I'd starve, I'm way too slow.

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Originally Posted by b757jetdr View Post
Rob,

Nice job on the wiring job! I know 20 yr aircraft mech that can't wire that good!

I will have to dig up a tool I have here at work that will make that a TON easier, I will see it I can dig it up and post some pics!
Cable ties would be the easy route that I know of. An Aircraft crimping tool Is my guess. I wonder what you are coming up with?

So I knocked out one of the rears. I think I'm going to grab a set of 6" pliers in both lefty and righty. It would make this process way faster. Between my sausage fingers and the old 9" safety wire pliers I have this rotor took me too long.


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Old 06-30-2013, 05:34 PM
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Thanks If I had to do this for a living I'd starve, I'm way too slow.
I can cook, can you afford groceries?
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:48 PM
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Cable ties would be the easy route that I know of. An Aircraft crimping tool Is my guess. I wonder what you are coming up with?

So I knocked out one of the rears. I think I'm going to grab a set of 6" pliers in both lefty and righty. It would make this process way faster. Between my sausage fingers and the old 9" safety wire pliers I have this rotor took me too long.


[/QUOTE]

Rob,

Pretty good guess and description. I have the 6" left and right pliers if you need them? I will dig up that tool tomorrow and see about some pics.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:04 PM
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So before I got around to safety wiring the rotors I had to build them up. It is a simple exercise but it took a bit of time to do. Part of this is me being anal about putting them together.

Why worry about assembling brake parts right.



I'll run through this quick. It also gives me a chance to show off my Wilwood floating hats.

Here one is.



It's AL like most of the front hats but you'll notice the T slots in it instead of just threaded holes.

Into these you inset these little T nuts.





Man that is a crappy picture. I can't wait to hear GWs comment on that one.

This allows the rotor to "float" on the hat. This really separates the hat and the rotor into two separate pieces. Having two separate sections of the rotor and hat helps to keep heat generated in the rotor off of the hat. By keeping the hat cool you are less likely to have any flex, giving you more feel and braking predictability under extreme braking conditions. A floating rotor also allows for much more contact surface between the rotor and brake pads since the rotor itself follows the path of the pads correcting any imperfection either may have as it floats.



Now with anything that requires a definitive torque value I make sure the threads are clean and free of burrs. In most cases that means a quick run of a tap through the threads.

In this case the stainless bolts are nice and hard compared to the T nuts so I just dry fitted them. If any of the bolts had bound as I was assembling the rotors I would have got a tap out for that one.

With these T nuts you use a small T wire to ensure the nuts don't rotate as you torque the bolts.



I didn't have any issues with this set. Once the rotors are completely assembled to hand tight it's time to loctite and torque them.

I use two sockets of the same size to make the next step easy. Once I torque a bolt I leave the socket on it and then go to the bolt directly across to torque in a criss cross pattern. the first socket serves as a marker to remind me where I just was.


Once you put a bit of loctite RED on all the bolts bolt and torque them to 125 in lbs (in this case) it's time to get out the safety wire pliers.

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Old 06-30-2013, 06:10 PM
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If you really wanted to show them off you should have taken FIRST SET of pictures IN @*^#$ FOCUS!

The second set get's you a big pat on the back.........you're actually making an effort! Women like that in a man.

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Man those are crappy pictures. I can't wait to hear GWs comment on that one.
Why are you worried about GW?
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:18 PM
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Rob,

Pretty good guess and description. I have the 6" left and right pliers if you need them? I will dig up that tool tomorrow and see about some pics.
Maybe one of these

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Originally Posted by Sieg View Post
If you really wanted to show them off you should have taken FIRST SET of pictures IN @*^#$ FOCUS!

The second set get's you a big pat on the back.........you're actually making an effort! Women like that in a man.



Why are you worried about GW?
I figured he'd beat you to complaining about the photo quality. But you were first.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:18 AM
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Nice parts -- nice write up -- I see that Cheryl took some of the photos and you did a couple of the others?
  #10  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:28 AM
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I've never seen that safety cable system, very cool and quick!
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