Cold saws are great, and I wish I had one, but I have another option. It is a Makita metal cutting chop saw that uses Metal carbide blades (not the fiber type. It works well. The cuts are accurate as you set them up to be and no sparks.
Cold saws are great, and I wish I had one, but I have another option. It is a Makita metal cutting chop saw that uses Metal carbide blades (not the fiber type. It works well. The cuts are accurate as you set them up to be and no sparks.
Thanks for the input. I just have a tinkering garage/shop with limited space and that might fit my limited volume/applications well. My concern with the cold saws is snagging smaller thin wall square and round tubing.
After debating my real world usage vs. wants today I decided to upgrade my little Jet dry cut band saw to the Baileigh BS-712MS. Hopefully I'll see some improvement in accuracy, being a swivel head it will be much faster to setup for angles, and it also lock vertical which is a feature I use a fair amount. Hopefully the .75" vs. .50" blade improves the accuracy a little.
I know upgrading the band saw will be an improvement and I use it a fair amount. Time will tell.
Were you having problems with the accuracy or repeatability of the angle itself or was it not making a square cut like the blade was tilting or walking?
I would think that you could remedy the first by using a combination square instead of relying on the markings on the saw or even drill your own holes and set up pins at the angles you use most often. I've never found the markings to be very precise. If the problem is tilting of the cut or walking of the blade a wider blade will help but it all boils down to sharpness, pressure (feed) and pitch. Feed it too fast and pretty much any blade will "walk" and make a cut that isn't square. A dull blade has the same effect. Too coarse of a pitch on a thin walled material will give you similar problems and try to grab.
You should get yourself a few different blades to use for different materials and workpiece shapes. A very fine pitch should be used with the thin walled stuff to keep from having it grab or make a generally bad cut. If you can, always try to have a minumum of 2 or 3 teeth in cut at all times. The fine pitch blades will also work better on harder materials and will leave less of a burr on all materials at the expense of cutting speed.
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Cold saws are great, and I wish I had one, but I have another option. It is a Makita metal cutting chop saw that uses Metal carbide blades (not the fiber type. It works well. The cuts are accurate as you set them up to be and no sparks.
I have a Mikita saw like this but it has the fiber blades and they throw enough sparks to start a fire in the next state... I'll have to get one of those dry metal blades if I ever use it again. And I haven't used it except to rough cut heavy angle iron that I didn't care about accuracy. About two years ago I picked up a Wilton 3130 brand new in the box on Craigslist for $350. I thought I would use it every now and then for intercooler and exhaust projects but it's never gathered dust... I use it pretty much every day for cutting something. Highly recommended purchase! It is probably a step above your Jet Seig but not as nice as the Baleigh you are looking at!!
Thanks for the input. I just have a tinkering garage/shop with limited space and that might fit my limited volume/applications well. My concern with the cold saws is snagging smaller thin wall square and round tubing.
After debating my real world usage vs. wants today I decided to upgrade my little Jet dry cut band saw to the Baileigh BS-712MS. Hopefully I'll see some improvement in accuracy, being a swivel head it will be much faster to setup for angles, and it also lock vertical which is a feature I use a fair amount. Hopefully the .75" vs. .50" blade improves the accuracy a little.
I know upgrading the band saw will be an improvement and I use it a fair amount. Time will tell.
That is very, very, very nice Seig!
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I use the little Jet so much it made sense to upgrade the go-to tool verses adding a specialty saw at my level. If the miters aren't as tight as need the next move may be a 12" to 20" disc grinder as my little 1x42 belt / 8" disc Delta lacks surface area, table size, and has some disc flex.......but it's also a tool that gets used frequently.
Seig, did your BS-712MS saw arrive? Looking forward to seeing your impressions on it. I am looking at this one as well. Not a whole lot of reviews to find on this machine.
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Sieg, did your BS-712MS saw arrive? Looking forward to seeing your impressions on it. I am looking at this one as well. Not a whole lot of reviews to find on this machine.
Ron - I'm hoping it arrives next week. I'll review once I have it tuned properly and get familiar with it. The stock blade is a 6/10 (I think) and also purchased an 8/12 which I'm guessing for most of my work will be the go to blade.
Not sure if I'll need to get a blade tension gauge or not.....at $265+ I'm hoping not!
I would not be concerned with having a blade tension gauge. We used to have a Wells 10 inch bandsaw back in NY and the most important thing by far was simply having good bi-metal blades...and running the coolant/cutting lubricant...You can get killer pricing from McMaster Carr believe it or not on blades, they list them simply as "bi-metal blades" but when they show up they are Starrett brand blades. At my work we have a large Dake saw and that is where our guys buy the blades.
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I just have a tinkering garage/shop with limited space and that might fit my limited volume/applications well. My concern with the cold saws is snagging smaller thin wall square and round tubing.
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