Asphalt Modified Discussion - Lateral-g Forums

ccracin · #1 02-22-2014, 08:35 AM

Ron,

Let's start with the distributor. There is no distributor rule per say, but there is a rule that does not allow electronic timing control or retard boxes. That's why I said I didn't believe the E-Curve dizzy would be allowed. I understand the goal here and will help them come up with a solution that best fits the budget.

With regard to the exhaust, here is what they have. The headers are Shoenfeld stepped but are not crossovers. They are 1 5/8" primary tubes stepped to 1 3/4". The 1 5/8" tubes are 16" long with a total tube length of 38 1/2". They have standard 4 into one 3" collector about 8" long then into the Sheonfeld slip on mufflers. They are 3' in and out with 3 1/2" bodies. They are mounted right to the end of the collectors.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Ron Sutton · #2 02-22-2014, 01:48 PM

Hey Chad,

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccracin

Ron,

Let's start with the distributor. There is no distributor rule per say, but there is a rule that does not allow electronic timing control or retard boxes. That's why I said I didn't believe the E-Curve dizzy would be allowed. I understand the goal here and will help them come up with a solution that best fits the budget.
OK. Got it. Get a "self contained racing distributor" that doesn't require an external controller or amplifier ... with a sealed bearing that the shaft spins on. MSD makes them as well as Accel & Mallory.

With regard to the exhaust, here is what they have. The headers are Shoenfeld stepped but are not crossovers.
Crossover not needed.

They are 1 5/8" primary tubes stepped to 1 3/4". The 1 5/8" tubes are 16" long with a total tube length of 38 1/2". They have standard 4 into one 3" collector about 8" long then into the Sheonfeld slip on mufflers. They are 3' in and out with 3 1/2" bodies. They are mounted right to the end of the collectors.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

The easy, low budget solution is ...
a. Keep the headers.

b. Use 3" exhaust tubing for the dual exhaust.

c. Place the center of Insertable Collector Reducers with 2.5" ID at 9.9" from the end of the primary tubes.

d. Add a H-pipe inbetween the dual exhaust with the front edge of the opening of the H-pipe 19.8"± from the end of the primary tubes.

For anyone following along with us, how we place "straight through" mufflers in the exhaust system is different than how we place mufflers with chambers. "Straight through" mufflers act much like straight exhaust tubing, so the placement isn't critical. Chamber mufflers are different, as the exhaust gases are traveling further ... and in some chamber muffler designs ... there is expansion.

e. Chad, since they have straight through type mufflers, attach the mufflers after the H-pipe & try to keep the end of the mufflers (where the exhaust exits into the air) around 37-43" from the end of the primary tubes.

ccracin · #3 02-25-2014, 04:40 PM

So I have a quick update for you Ron. I think what you have helped me with here is going to work out better than I even imagined. So, I took all the information from the thread and typed up basically an outline for them starting with the block and moving on. I sent it over to them and let them chew on it. They are both professional mechanics and own a garage, but they are not engine guys. I think what really hit home was how many details need to be addressed to really make the most of the rules. I told them they could go one of 2 ways. I would help them execute this plan and try to stay on budget. The other was I would get them in touch with the guy I think makes the best power in our area for these types of engines and they can say the hell with the budget and put a hammer in the car. They asked for the introduction and dropped their engine off at his shop today! LOL I'll keep you posted on the progress. Thanks very much!

You have me wanting to take the parts I have around the shop and putting a motor together to sell. It might be easier to clean the shop up that way!

Ron Sutton · #4 02-25-2014, 07:37 PM

Hi Chad,

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccracin

So I have a quick update for you Ron. I think what you have helped me with here is going to work out better than I even imagined. So, I took all the information from the thread and typed up basically an outline for them starting with the block and moving on. I sent it over to them and let them chew on it. They are both professional mechanics and own a garage, but they are not engine guys. I think what really hit home was how many details need to be addressed to really make the most of the rules. I told them they could go one of 2 ways. I would help them execute this plan and try to stay on budget. The other was I would get them in touch with the guy I think makes the best power in our area for these types of engines and they can say the hell with the budget and put a hammer in the car. They asked for the introduction and dropped their engine off at his shop today! LOL I'll keep you posted on the progress. Thanks very much!
Too funny! But an excellent choice for them.

You have me wanting to take the parts I have around the shop and putting a motor together to sell. It might be easier to clean the shop up that way!

Haha.

ccracin · #5 07-28-2014, 06:02 AM

Well Ron, here is a quick update. They got the new engine and have more power than they ever have. Now they don't have the chassis to work with it. I warned them this was going to happen. I'm trying as much as I can to help them get close. One issue they are having is brakes. When I ran, we had to run OEM calipers and Pads. Now they can run racing pads but still have to run OEM calipers. This car has 12" 5x5 impala rotors and calipers on the front. Type 52. The rears are metric calipers on a floater. Type 154. What brake pads do you recommend for a 1/2 mile track? I was thinking a Hawk Blue or Black. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

Ron Sutton · #6 07-28-2014, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccracin

Well Ron, here is a quick update. They got the new engine and have more power than they ever have. Now they don't have the chassis to work with it. I warned them this was going to happen. I'm trying as much as I can to help them get close. One issue they are having is brakes. When I ran, we had to run OEM calipers and Pads. Now they can run racing pads but still have to run OEM calipers. This car has 12" 5x5 impala rotors and calipers on the front. Type 52. The rears are metric calipers on a floater. Type 154. What brake pads do you recommend for a 1/2 mile track? I was thinking a Hawk Blue or Black. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

Hi Chad,

The brake pads depend on the suspension set up. If they were on a high travel/low roll set ... which I doubt they are ... they would need less aggressive pads. We ran Wilwood BP-10's on our High travel Modifieds, because we needed to brake moderately for a set distance without overslowing the mid corner.

In a conventional suspension set-up, you can drive it in deeper but have to slow it down more before mid corner, so you need a more aggressive pad. Most of my customers on Conventional suspension set-ups like the Hawk Blacks. But my one client that has the best conventional set-up (close to a tweener) drives in straighter, diamonds the middle & drives off straighter ... has a shorter braking zone & runs Hawk Blues.

That's why I feel brake pads need to fit the driver & car set-up.