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Old 01-21-2015, 08:09 AM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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pimlico, I commend you for asking this question because a lot of people are not in touch with reality when looking at these cars or starting these builds. My recommendation before starting is to decide the goal you have for the car and the build. You're going to have to be brutally honest with yourself in all aspects that matter to you. Once you've identified that goal, then you can start working towards it. You may find that buying an almost completed car or even fully completed car is the smart way to achieve your desires. Or, you may be more interested in the journey and want to learn the different skills necessary to be able to say you built it. That's the path I'm taking for what it's worth.

One thing I would mention/caution against. You don't need a fully equipped DSE car with 700+ hp to have fun or go fast. I'm assuming you're an average Joe here and not an experienced racer. A very simple build still using leaf springs, normal size one piece wheels, and a 400 hp engine will be loads of fun to build and learn how to drive. I'd like to think that goal is what brings most of us together on this site.

Good luck to you.
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2015, 08:32 AM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Good post Trey!!



The difference between buying a car done - or building it (pro or self) is the journey. Some love the hunting and the gathering and the journey... Some people would be FAR better off if they'd just shop for a decent car and be satisfied. Whatever level that is. Not everybody needs or can afford a "SEMA" quality car.

These are "toys" for boys... and it's a hobby - regardless of what route you choose.

Just be forewarned that it's not for the light of wallet unless you have good skills and time and some talent... or lots of perseverance... and some friends to help and guide.

Beware that these cars are 40 years old. They were cheap junk when built at the factory. They suffered thru a time when they weren't worth 1200 bucks... Floor's - trunks - lower body areas are all subject to rot. Rot is easily covered over by people in an effort to cover it up. If you're going to buy a 40 year old car - you'd better know what the hell you're looking at. You better learn to look at EVERYTHING with a jaundiced eye! There's more to this than shiny chrome valve covers and shiny paint.

A buddy of mine wanted a '32 Ford hot rod. He had a budget of 25 grand. We looked at maybe 200 cars over the course of a year plus.... then one day a car came up on Ebay that was only hours away... off we went... he got his VERY NICE '32 Ford Hiboy for his budget. We did NOT bid on eBay - we went and put EYEBALLS ON THE CAR!! When we go on drives and to shows.... he's having every bit as much fun in his as I am in mine that cost 10 times as much. I think he's smarter than I am.

If you buy a done car -- and the seller claims "body off" etc -- don't just rely on pictures! I can cut and past lots of pictures off the internet of bodies in bare metal and claim it to be of "my" build. So unless you can positively identify the car - or talk to the shop that did the work etc... you can get screwed. Don't get screwed! Be smart! There's "trust" but you need to VERIFY.

In the end -- if you want to build one -- and can write a check for 100 grand today to get started and write another 100 grand check in a year... then you can start one of these builds if you don't get project creep. 100 grand in parts including a body purchase of some kind for say 25 grand.... paint and upholstery will be 50K.... and labor - lots of labor.

Easy isn't it.
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:46 AM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Where are you located roughly?? Let us recommend some shops to go talk to near you... you can then go visit them and look and see and discuss directly about "a project" and you'll get a feel for what it takes and looks like. It's fun - you'll meet some great people. It might be an eye opener for you in terms of whether or not you want to build a car vs buy a car. Maybe they'll even know a car for sale that they know the history of etc.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:08 AM
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Mr. Weld should be and ambassador for the hot rod/pro-touring world.... Got a question call 1-800-WELD.

Mr Weld nails it on the head every time... Why because he has grease under his nails ,has money to build a professional car buy the best, and plain old knows from experience and knowledge...

I've actually copied and given some of his quotes to customers to read. I suck at being a sales man, but have a passion for what I do... This business and my work ethic and pride in what I do has taught me to be brutaly honest in every thing I do ! If you don't think and act this way it will bite you in the A$$! Not only for Me but the customer as well.

I have a $60,000.00 ebay buy in my shop that I can atest too. Person A had the car built with all the best. Everything DSE from front to back, LS3 and trans from Street & Perf. Brand new trim , interior, electrical Etc.. HRE rims, Big Brakes, Everything on the car was brand new. Probably well over $130,000.00 in the car. Car was never finished. It so called only needed a few things to get her running (that was a joke in it self) Person A ran into financial problems. Person B bought it off e-bay for $60,000 with the intent to get it running fairly quick (NOT !!!).

Well.... Now the car sits in my shop on a jig table with the hole-ass end ripped out. The paint job was so bad we ended up blasting it and found extremely poor work and unfinished rust everywhere. Hood fenders the rear quarters look new but were installed so poorly they look origanal. And on... and on.... and on....

So in the big picture (truth). Find a good solid original car and expect to spend the $ 250,000 to $350,000 for a proffessionaly built car that will start-run-drive from the first week you receive it to 5 years down the road. If not you will having to keep calling back the shop for all those fixes as if you had it built for a GOOD DEAL !

I'm not saying you can have a bitchen little Resto-mod bought and built for under $100,000 or less(depending on skill level) and enjoy the heck out of it !! But if you wanna go big there are a TON of things that will effect how you approch a build and the final out come.

Hope this all made sense ?????

Mark
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:41 PM
randy randy is offline
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Ive got my car to this point. Now to get it to this point it wasn't cheap. Things add up quick. Im going on 4 years and i still have work to do. Honestly as is without engine and trans i wouldn't let this car go for under 50k and i have more than that in it. Now If i lost my job, my wife lost her job, kid was sick, and I'm about to lose my house that would be a different story. Now something like this is i have a lot of documentation.

Things usually go like this. " well while you are in there replacing the tubs we might as well mini tub it and since we are doing that it would be a perfect time to upgrade to the dse rear quadralink." While he's right cost starts to add up really fast. You go from a few grand to 10k quick.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:28 PM
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TheJDMan TheJDMan is offline
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IF you can do your own work you can get a lot for your money. I am very close to $70,000 in my project but I have owned the car for 40+ years and that cost is just the updates. I have no interior and have not even started on paint yet. But I can drive and enjoy to the car for now. If I did not have a car to start with and was not going to do the work myself I would be attending some auctions like Barrett-Jackson or Mechum to pick up a finished car.


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Old 01-22-2015, 09:24 AM
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Swain Swain is offline
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Steve what suspension do you have in the rear of this car?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
IF you can do your own work you can get a lot for your money. I am very close to $70,000 in my project but I have owned the car for 40+ years and that cost is just the updates. I have no interior and have not even started on paint yet. But I can drive and enjoy to the car for now. If I did not have a car to start with and was not going to do the work myself I would be attending some auctions like Barrett-Jackson or Mechum to pick up a finished car.


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  #8  
Old 01-22-2015, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
$250k to $350k for a decent reliable car... I am glad I did not read this before I got interested in these cars. The number boggles my mind. Surely a regular guy can enjoy these cars too. Especially if they want to tour and not race or have a 900 hp king of the hill engine etc.

I got the sense the OP is a regular guy and I think tossing out numbers like that will discourage him from owning, driving and enjoying one of these cars.

Don
I agree Don. Not everyone needs or WANTS a $150k to 200k to 300k car. Many days I miss my $30k car and how much fun I had in it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WSSix View Post
pimlico, I commend you for asking this question because a lot of people are not in touch with reality when looking at these cars or starting these builds. My recommendation before starting is to decide the goal you have for the car and the build. You're going to have to be brutally honest with yourself in all aspects that matter to you. Once you've identified that goal, then you can start working towards it. You may find that buying an almost completed car or even fully completed car is the smart way to achieve your desires. Or, you may be more interested in the journey and want to learn the different skills necessary to be able to say you built it. That's the path I'm taking for what it's worth.

One thing I would mention/caution against. You don't need a fully equipped DSE car with 700+ hp to have fun or go fast. I'm assuming you're an average Joe here and not an experienced racer. A very simple build still using leaf springs, normal size one piece wheels, and a 400 hp engine will be loads of fun to build and learn how to drive. I'd like to think that goal is what brings most of us together on this site.

Good luck to you.
Right on Trey.
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2015, 11:02 AM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
I agree Don. Not everyone needs or WANTS a $150k to 200k to 300k car. Many days I miss my $30k car and how much fun I had in it.
This is why my car has been scaled waaaaaaaay back. I just want to enjoy the car and learn some tricks along the way. I'd never get there if I stayed with my original plan.

Steve, you don't need paint so save the money or donate it to me

pimlico, don't be discouraged. That was not the intent of my post. Just be sure to have your eyes wide open before starting this process.
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2015, 01:54 AM
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Okay... I generally prefer not to talk about $ but in this case I just wanna say I am WELL UNDER $100k in parts and well under $150k in total. Why? Because I bought a running car 5 years ago for a good deal ($29k) with a lot of nice upgraded parts -- fully upgraded stock sub, DSE leafs, mini tubbed, roll cage, pretty nice 10 year old paint job, and 550 hp SBC with a Muncie. It competed well with the $100k+ Pro Touring cars at events (why didn't I leave it alone again? ) but one thing leads to another and you get bored and want more. BUT I sold a lot of those parts to the tune of 5 figures to help fund bigger and better parts... and that is why I am not at $150k to 300k like other guys. But then I don't have a $25k paint job (Honestly don't want one) and a $10k+ interior (don't want that either). My money has gone to drivetrain and suspension mainly.

Bottom line -- I knew I would change and upgrade things over time (didn't know how much or how fast) but you're way ahead if you have something decent and/or complete to start with. AND find a good builder/shop who will be HONEST with the numbers with you and not suck you in with a "good deal"... and just make sure they have actually put out some running cars that last if you go that route. Luckily my delays have been due to people not willing to work not having the time to work.

Good luck. And watch that sphincter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
... you can get screwed. Don't get screwed! Be smart!
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