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Old 04-02-2015, 12:07 AM
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Vince@Meanstreets Vince@Meanstreets is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_l View Post
Wow Vince, Thank you for the detailed explanation. I do not have the vintage air yet, and have not looked into it's wiring diagram. So you have me pretty lost. However I did order my psi harness with a/c recognition, might have been wasted money. I've been laying everything out on the floor trying to understand.

"On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires"


Are you saying I can remove the entire red wire going to the starter solenoid, and to the alternator? What will power the AAW fuse block? And the starter is controlled by the ignition and pcm correct?

Then what about the purple wire to the starter solenoid?
no problem. I have a system that seems to work.

No, not a waste. The AC on will bump the idle?

There is a wire that goes to the charge system for the light. Use everything else as prescribed. Yes, you use the purple wire. The starter and alternator Bat + wires up the same.

You want to leave the Red 10g wire to the battery. Fixed my list here.

On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires 1 18g brown wire
ignition coil wires 14g pink
blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange ** see note
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire



vintage air diagram

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/901156.pdf

page 19 shows wire colors and hook ups.

blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange On this Orange 10g, I like to delete the engine side, pull it out of the firewall side of the bulk head, put a single GM (spare connectors and terminals from the AAW kit) and run it to the 10g Red to the Vintage air blower motor. I replace the 30amp fuse with a 30 amp ATO thermal relay. Remove the vintage air breaker from the system.
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-16-2015 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 12:25 AM
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I would recommend doing the PSI engine harness first. Lay it out. Plug everything in, figure out routing, controller mounting, grounds, fuse relay panel mounting and go from there. It maybe much more clear to you what wires you need and where they are going to come from.

Another tip, whe you are routing wiring, use masking tape to hold the wires together till you do the final loom. 5" strip with one end taped to itself (sticky to sticky) so you can open it up to add wire and don't cut anything till you are certain its right.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:08 AM
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Vince, this is a great write up.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle View Post
Vince, this is a great write up.
Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_l View Post
Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too.
thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.
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Last edited by Vince@Meanstreets; 04-02-2015 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right?


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.

Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok??

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

Last edited by kevin_l; 04-02-2015 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_l View Post
Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok??

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?
perfect!

I like to hide a high amp switch in there somewhere for anti theft.
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ACCUAIR rideheight control systems
ENTROPY RADIATORS XXX radiators for your pro-touring vehicle
FORGELINE MOTORSPORTS Highline custom 3 piece wheels
WEGNER AUTOMOTIVE Custom engines and LSX drive systems
SPEEDTECH PERFORMANCE Bay Area stocking dealer

NEVER FORGET -11
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:54 PM
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OK, started pulling out some wire tonight. I removed the wires you said including the pink coil wire but noticed on the schematic the yellow starter solenoid wire jumpers off the pink wire that is now removed.

Is this yellow starter solenoid wire needed anymore? And what about the VSS ground, VSS Signal and tan brake warning switch?

Then, Can I remove these:

ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side)
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire

from the dash side of the bulk head?

Last edited by kevin_l; 04-03-2015 at 09:54 PM.
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