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  #1  
Old 06-23-2016, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panteracer View Post
So are you going to due the gulstrang mod to the shock??

Bob
Not really. The UCA mount will be all new so I can use slugs to adjust the alignment and set the car up per Ron's guidance for the correct geometry. Ron is have a custom UCA made to put my ball joint in the best possible location based on the current spindles I have.

I'm debating how to mount the shocks overall. I'd like to add adjusters to them mount them further out on the LCA and to the engine bay bars I'll be adding to the cage but I'm not sure there is time for this and not sure if the wheels will interfere. Most likely I'll reuse the current Speedtech mounts I have.
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:44 PM
NvrDun71 NvrDun71 is offline
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Subscribed, looking forward to seeing this progress. The custom UCA concept optimized to the AFX spindle is something Speedtech should really look into. Seems there current offerings work, but aren't built around the spindle per se.
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Last edited by NvrDun71; 06-23-2016 at 01:47 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2016, 03:09 PM
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Panteracer Panteracer is offline
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Default Another 2nd gen

Look forward to seeing this progress
I still have a stock spindle and need to change
things... I like the custom UCA idea

Bob
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panteracer View Post
Look forward to seeing this progress
I still have a stock spindle and need to change
things... I like the custom UCA idea

Bob
If I didn't already have the AFX spindle I would have gone with a custom one from Ron which would have made the geometry even better from what I recall with the conversations I had with him. The downfall for me is that I would have had to get new front brakes and a few other pieces which blew my budget.



Here are some more updates

With the frame welded to the table in the same position as the car I needed to get started moving the LCA mounts. Overall I need to move the LCA mounts up 1/8" and make sure both sides are exactly the same.

At first I decided to cut a few bolts in the lathe to make a point which would find the center points and hang strings from there. Quickly I found the issue was that the ante of the bolts could move relative to each other depending the angle of the factory mount which caused a lot of variability. I didn't like this.

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The plan already involved using steel rods to ensure alignment of the holes after they are moved. I decided to expand upon the use of this. I drilled 2 holes in the rods at the location of the LCA pivot centers so I could hang a string thru it and get the best possible measurement along with the most aligned mounts.

Once everything was where it needed to be hardened washers were then welded on to the frame so nothing would move. It doesn't look too hard in the pics but given it was my first time to do it, I had a lot of time measuring, grinding, remeasuring and regrinding....but finally I got it done.

Last night I also finished up the driver side so step one and hopefully one of the harder (most critical tolerances) is complete.


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  #5  
Old 07-10-2016, 11:28 AM
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Panteracer Panteracer is offline
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Default Another Second Gen

Surprised the 1/8" makes that much difference
but understand that Ron's word is Gold. I was also
told by another builder that you want to brace the rear
lower supports as they move around with the bigger tires,bars etc

Thinking this may be the way to go for me since I have a Pontiac
Engine with not a lot of options. Was already thinking Ron's spindles
and custom Uca. Looks like a lot of work but it will be worth it in the end

Bob
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2016, 08:48 AM
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Bob - I'm moving the locations 1/8" but I'm also moving the entire frame up 1/2" into the car by removing all the body mounts. These changes along with new UCAs and remounting them are all combining to give me an overall better front RC under dive.

I agree with you on bracing the rear LCA mounts. I'll be doing this once I have the engine back in so I can check for header clearance.



Another thing I am doing is moving the lower shock mount outward for better responsiveness. This is pretty scary for me since I'm no where near a professional welder/fab guy. Either way I already took the plunge and this is what I came up with over the weekend. Its a really tight fit but everything seems to work.

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Not sure I mentioned it before but I did find something scary when pulling the car apart. The fuel vent must have been leaking inside the car. I could smell it once in a while when the tank was full but I though it was just a little bit of fumes. apparently it was coming out the vent and dripping in the car because the vent was angled and didn't reach too far out of the floors. Thats what I can gather from what I see. Either way there's no doubt that this will certainly be changed before the car gets back on any street or track

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  #7  
Old 07-11-2016, 10:00 AM
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Ron Sutton Ron Sutton is offline
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Fabrication is looking good Steve !
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