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Old 11-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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rixtrix1 rixtrix1 is offline
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Car looks good. Once you get it dialed in, it oughta be great in CAM.
Noticed the NE plate. Would be nice if you posted your location in your profile. I'm originally from Gering. Now in Chandler, AZ doing autoX with AZSolo.

Saw your reply over on Lance's thread. Replacing the body mounts with some stiff aftermarket ones, patching the rusted frame holes( I'm sure some are bad . They usually are. ) and maybe even boxing the frame rails should make a huge difference. If you look on Chevelles.com, there used to be a thread or two on making a simple body brace between the rear wheel wells( sort of an "X" behind the back seat using 1/8" flat strapping).
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2002 S-10, Daily Driver and autoX
1966 Chevelle MALIBU ( mine since 1971) Drag car converting to a track car!

Last edited by rixtrix1; 11-23-2018 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:15 PM
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rixtrix1 rixtrix1 is offline
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I noticed you are using an F-body oil pan. Did you have to do anything to keep the inner tie rods ends from hitting it at full lock? Have you thought of using the roadrace baffle for inside the pan. I think there is one available for the stock pans as well as the Holley pans.
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2002 S-10, Daily Driver and autoX
1966 Chevelle MALIBU ( mine since 1971) Drag car converting to a track car!
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:57 PM
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Cool car. What rear bar are you running? Car will likely turn better with softer rear bar. Stiffer rear bar unloads inside tire too much, hence the wheel spin.
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---------------------------------------------------------------
70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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