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Old 04-16-2025, 12:23 PM
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I'm doing the dash inserts and the waterfall/center-console center section with carbon overlay. I agree, CF is sorta overdone these days but I think it works for my interior and will give a bit of contrast to the mostly black interior. I will use Matte clear for the final coat so it should look good.

Did a bunch of test pieces with some of the test prints of the switch panels to figure out how to cut the holes for the switches very accurately. Have no choice but to cut out the carbon by hand so really need to keep the plastic edge clean and unbothered by the epoxy resin, so it can but used as a guide for filing the edge straight.

Seems crazy but the process was to back it with masking tape (yellow), brush multiple coats of mold release (green) over the tape and let it get on the super thin edge of the plastic opening. Then fill the void with hot glue so the carbon had something to rest on so it would stay flat and not sag into the hole.

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Then a fairly thick coat of epoxy, tinted black. The CF weave isn't tight so it needs the black backing. Let it tack up to only a finger print. Then massage down the CF, keeping the edges tight (that's the only real trick).
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Then lay down a couple of layers of clear epoxy to seal it down.
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Now sanding the epoxy flat in preparation for the matte clear. I'll be here awhile, needs to go to 800grit.
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2025, 01:36 PM
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Very impressive John.
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 04-17-2025, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goosesdad View Post
[B]
Did a bunch of test pieces with some of the test prints of the switch panels to figure out how to cut the holes for the switches very accurately. Have no choice but to cut out the carbon by hand so really need to keep the plastic edge clean and unbothered by the epoxy resin, so it can but used as a guide for filing the edge straight.

Seems crazy but the process was to back it with masking tape (yellow), brush multiple coats of mold release (green) over the tape and let it get on the super thin edge of the plastic opening. Then fill the void with hot glue so the carbon had something to rest on so it would stay flat and not sag into the hole.
You could have printed a insert to fill the button holes from the back and made the clearance tight enough that you could have used clay or way to fill the gap so your edges stayed crisp.

I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body.

https://youtu.be/ICh4lK_CfdE?si=2xrMMQOxb4EYLia4

I have the X1C also, I'm ordering the H2D in a few months I think. I want the first few batches to get the bugs worked out first.
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2025, 12:47 PM
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[QUOTE=CamaroAJ;734122]You could have printed a insert to fill the button holes from the back and made the clearance tight enough that you could have used clay or way to fill the gap so your edges stayed crisp.

I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body.



I have the X1C also, I'm ordering the H2D in a few months I think. I want the first few batches to get the bugs worked out first.[/QUOTE]

You are so right!! Didn't even think of that!! Rookie over here!!!!
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Old 04-25-2025, 06:54 AM
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Fuse box access panel done. Realizing this is sorta boring!
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2025, 08:31 AM
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Yeah, but it's progress and progress is cool!
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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