Do it Jody! Bambu Labs just came out with a new one that allows larger prints as well, that said my X1C is pretty good. I'm telling you this stuff is beyond easy. I know AJ will agree, total game changer. Possibilities are endless. I use SolidWorx to draw, I am fortunate to get a military discount but even at full pop, it's not stupid $$. There are a number of others, Fusion 360 seems popular as well. I do have a bit of CAD experience but there are some awesome YTube vids that even a total beginner could do complicated parts very quickly, no special computer requirements, I use a fairly standard laptop. Then you dump those files into the "slicing" software for the printer and for the most part you are off to the races, that software takes care of it from there...mostly. However, it has about a Gillion things you can adjust if you desire, for example, that fuse block bracket, making sections of it solid where the nut inserts went! Beyond easy is the only way I can describe it.
I'm doing the dash inserts and the waterfall/center-console center section with carbon overlay. I agree, CF is sorta overdone these days but I think it works for my interior and will give a bit of contrast to the mostly black interior. I will use Matte clear for the final coat so it should look good.
Did a bunch of test pieces with some of the test prints of the switch panels to figure out how to cut the holes for the switches very accurately. Have no choice but to cut out the carbon by hand so really need to keep the plastic edge clean and unbothered by the epoxy resin, so it can but used as a guide for filing the edge straight.
Seems crazy but the process was to back it with masking tape (yellow), brush multiple coats of mold release (green) over the tape and let it get on the super thin edge of the plastic opening. Then fill the void with hot glue so the carbon had something to rest on so it would stay flat and not sag into the hole.
Then a fairly thick coat of epoxy, tinted black. The CF weave isn't tight so it needs the black backing. Let it tack up to only a finger print. Then massage down the CF, keeping the edges tight (that's the only real trick).
Then lay down a couple of layers of clear epoxy to seal it down.
Now sanding the epoxy flat in preparation for the matte clear. I'll be here awhile, needs to go to 800grit.
[B]
Did a bunch of test pieces with some of the test prints of the switch panels to figure out how to cut the holes for the switches very accurately. Have no choice but to cut out the carbon by hand so really need to keep the plastic edge clean and unbothered by the epoxy resin, so it can but used as a guide for filing the edge straight.
Seems crazy but the process was to back it with masking tape (yellow), brush multiple coats of mold release (green) over the tape and let it get on the super thin edge of the plastic opening. Then fill the void with hot glue so the carbon had something to rest on so it would stay flat and not sag into the hole.
You could have printed a insert to fill the button holes from the back and made the clearance tight enough that you could have used clay or way to fill the gap so your edges stayed crisp.
I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body.
[QUOTE=CamaroAJ;734122]You could have printed a insert to fill the button holes from the back and made the clearance tight enough that you could have used clay or way to fill the gap so your edges stayed crisp.
I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body.
I have the X1C also, I'm ordering the H2D in a few months I think. I want the first few batches to get the bugs worked out first.[/QUOTE]
You are so right!! Didn't even think of that!! Rookie over here!!!!
Do it Jody! Bambu Labs just came out with a new one that allows larger prints as well, that said my X1C is pretty good. I'm telling you this stuff is beyond easy. I know AJ will agree, total game changer. Possibilities are endless. I use SolidWorx to draw, I am fortunate to get a military discount but even at full pop, it's not stupid $$. There are a number of others, Fusion 360 seems popular as well. I do have a bit of CAD experience but there are some awesome YTube vids that even a total beginner could do complicated parts very quickly, no special computer requirements, I use a fairly standard laptop. Then you dump those files into the "slicing" software for the printer and for the most part you are off to the races, that software takes care of it from there...mostly. However, it has about a Gillion things you can adjust if you desire, for example, that fuse block bracket, making sections of it solid where the nut inserts went! Beyond easy is the only way I can describe it.
Agree with John, I have the X1C and have never printed before, it's pretty easy to figure out. I also downloaded the Personal free version of fusion 360 and watched allot of youtube to learn it.
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