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  #1  
Old 08-03-2006, 12:18 PM
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MarkM66 MarkM66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtieracing
I was really suprised to notice from Ricks or others camaro parts catalog at the dynacorn body is "imported" ? If so where-mexico?
Probably Tiawan, like basically all other sheetmetal for these old cars.

Not sure how true, but my parts guys said as a rule of thumb, if it has that black primer, it's there to protect from the seawater/humidity when being shipped over here.
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:04 PM
Weaver Weaver is offline
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I had a newbie question. I don't have the big bucks like most of you guys, so my idea was to find a good drive and do my pro touring car peacemeal. This would not be my only means of transportation, so that I why i think it may work. Has anyone else done this or does everyone just do it all at once.

Thanks,

Weaver

Quote:
Originally Posted by BThibodeaux
I have been watching cars on Lateral-G for about a year, but I just joined today. As the title indicates, I am building a car from scratch utilizing the Dyanacorn convertible body. This is my 4th car to build, and based on past experiences I anticipate it will be another year and a half before this one is done. So, I guess I am asking that everyone be patient with me. Here are the details in list format:

Body Modifications:
Inset round brushed aluminum bezeled A/C vents in the dash
Firewall partially smoothed
Mini-tubs from DSE
RS headlight assemblies converted to electric utilizing the Retro-Electric conversion kit
Marquez design parking/blinker lights converted to driving lights
Marquez design RS tail light bezels
Foam insulation (Great Stuff) sprayed into all void spaces in the body

Drivetrain/Suspension:
Merlin X block based all aluminum 540 CID fuel injected motor
TKO 600 5 spd. transmission from Keisler
Ford 9" rear end from Currie
Wayne Due subrame utilizing C-4 Corvette components and QA-1 coil overs, power rack and pinion steering
Air Ride technologies triangulated four link rear suspension utilizing QA-1 coil overs rather than air bags
Global West subframe connectors and DSE solid body mounts
13" Corvette ZR-1 breaks with Baer Eradispeed rotors up front; and 12" Baer brakes in the rear
Fikse FM-10 wheels on Michelen tires - 18"X9.5" up front and 18"X11" in the rear
Ron Davis aluminum radiator with dual 13" fans and custom overflow reservoir
Rick's Hot Rod Shop stainless gas tank
3" exhaust with 4"X14" round Magnaflow mufflers used as resonators and 4"X14" oval Magnaflow mufflers (I like it quiet)

Interior:
Deluxe door panels and quarters with brushed stainless inserts
Black leather Corbeau front seats, with the rear seat narrowed (for the mini-tubs) and stitched to match the fronts
DSE instrument panel painted gloss black with white faced and stainless bezeled Classic Instruments, round brushed aluminum bezeled Vintage Air A/C vents, matching round brushed aluminum headlight and wiper switches, Watson Streetworks oval brushed aluminum dual switch panel for driving lights and power top, Alpine head unit with brushed aluminum finish
Custom consol coverd in black leather, incorporating Vintage Air A/C controls and Watson Streetworks oval brushed aluminum quad switch panel for Electric Life power windows
Steering wheel - Undecided

Other:
DSE multi-speed wiper motor and switch kit
DSE polycarbonate halogen headlights
Dual Optima batteries mounted in trunk
American Autowire wiring with the fuse panel mounted in the trunk
Lots of relays for all of the accessories
Custom subwoofer box in trunk with a singl 10" sub
Vintage Air Compac II mounted using the DSE bracket
Vintage Air Front Runner set up
The car will be painted black, and the top will be black

There you go. My mail order G machine.

I will submit some photos of what has been done so far soon. At this point the instrument panel is done; the front suspension is on the powdercoated subframe; the mini-tubs and rear suspension are done; the headlight assemblies are converted to electric. That is about it. The rest of the parts are either in the rafters of my garage or in stacks on the floor.

I would be interested to hear about other people's experiences with Dynacorn bodies. Mine was built by American Muscle Cars in Southern California.
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  #3  
Old 08-18-2006, 08:30 PM
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Musclerodz Musclerodz is offline
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I wonder if you could buy one of these in pieces and haul it to someone like Mike's Custom Cars who is well know for re-sheetmetaling first gen's and doing an excellent job.

Mike
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:59 AM
BThibodeaux BThibodeaux is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musclerodz
I wonder if you could buy one of these in pieces and haul it to someone like Mike's Custom Cars who is well know for re-sheetmetaling first gen's and doing an excellent job.

Mike

That is a good question. American Muscle Car in So Cal (the guys who built my body) is also well knowf for re-sheetmetaling these cars. This is why Classic industries used them for their car, which was a basket case and needed every panel replaced. However, their contract with Dynacorn requires them to assemble these bodies using defined parameters and techniques, and does not allow for anything that would be considered "bodywork". Apparently they use that term pretty liberally too. I am sure they would be building a much better quality product if they had the ability to straighten the body out as they assembled it, and charge for the time.
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:49 AM
BThibodeaux BThibodeaux is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaver
I had a newbie question. I don't have the big bucks like most of you guys, so my idea was to find a good drive and do my pro touring car peacemeal. This would not be my only means of transportation, so that I why i think it may work. Has anyone else done this or does everyone just do it all at once.

Thanks,

Weaver

I think it can be done if you start with a very solid car that has no rust issues. The thing is, if you find a car like this it will most likely already have been restored and priced accordingly. One big reason I decided to go with a Dynacorn body is that I would have needed to get rid of a bunch of stock components considering the way I am building the car. This is why I sold the blue car you see earlier in this thread. Even though that car was a good "driver" it really needed to come apart to get rid of all of the rust before any money was put into it to build a pro touring car.
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