1/25th Camaro quickie and another of the GTO - Lateral-g Forums

city_ofthe_south · #1 08-21-2007, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by black2002ls

If you are doing a two tone. Maybe something like this...

Spray the silver, then mask the line for the blue, before you spray the blue hit it with silver again. What this does is seal the tape line so the blue doesn't bleed, you could also use clear for this. A large portion of the time you end up with a ridge. I lightly sand that area with some 2000 before clear, and then pile on the clear after that to try and make the line disappear. That is one reason I like using 2 part automotive urethane, it is hard and sprays thicker than the duplicolor, so it hides those things a little better. That chevelle was done with all duplicolor paint, minus the purple pin stripe.

i'm mainly interested in dry time between colors. i don't really see on the color cans where it says about dry time. i was just goin to let the black dry 24 hours then tape off and shoot blue. do you allow less time than this for your first color to dry?

mlomaka · #2 08-21-2007, 06:08 PM

You can try 24 hours, but a lot depends on what you are going to mask it with. The stickier whatever it is you use, the longer I would wait. Personally, I would give it a couple of days. I have also found that the thinner the masking, the smaller the ridge. I have some of that bad "super bright" Bare Metal that doesn't really stick well enough to use for detailing, but works great for two tones. It leaves a very little ridge. Take your time, you don't want to mess up what you have already done.
Here are a couple I did using BM.

Be sure to show us pics after you do it.

black2002ls · #3 08-21-2007, 10:42 PM

A day should be sufficient. I've had issues with paint pulling up no matter how long I waited, I'm pretty sure it was bad prep on my part. I try to use 3m fine line tape

city_ofthe_south · #4 08-22-2007, 07:10 AM

ok, thanks guys. I'm gonna try pretty hard on this model to step up from the GTO as far as over all finish so don't fear, there will be many pics. I got those 23Ts from pegasus and one of them is really poorly chromed which aggravates the crap out of me when they're frickin 8 bucks for 4 tiny pieces of plastic and some rubber ... but aaaaaaaanyway. Compared to the cost of a model does anyone else think we should be getting a whole box full of wheels and tires for that kind of money? ok seriously ... i'm done. thanks again for the help.

black2002ls · #5 08-22-2007, 07:43 AM

Pegasus is a rather small operation as far as car modeling is concerned. Its not cheap to have things chromed. Who did you order them from? Most online hobby shops and distributors are pretty good about customer service. I've yet to have any issues with pegasus wheels. Try going through customer service and see if you can get a replacement set.

city_ofthe_south · #6 08-23-2007, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by black2002ls

Pegasus is a rather small operation as far as car modeling is concerned. Its not cheap to have things chromed. Who did you order them from? Most online hobby shops and distributors are pretty good about customer service. I've yet to have any issues with pegasus wheels. Try going through customer service and see if you can get a replacement set.

well i'm sure I've tossed the information and i've had them for quite awhile ... a month prolly. I got them from Hobby Linc ... just found the email. On one of the wheels you can still see the plastic color on the sides of the spokes like the chrome fades to clear around the edges. This whole thing with the Challenger has been very ... challenging, because my glass is effed up, I can't get BMF here in town and I already stripped the bumpers, the humidity made my paint crinkle a little last night so I'll have to work on that. this is a rebuild and i can't get two of the head lights out. i guess i glued them in REAL good. i've masked them off which i know isn't working very well. couldn't get the hood pins sanded off very well without hitting other parts of the hood with the sand paper that i didn't want to sand on anymore. gggrrrr.

black2002ls · #7 08-23-2007, 09:08 AM

We all run into these little issues on our builds from time to time. Hobby Linc, I think I've ordered from them, they are on the east coast right? Georgia or alabama or somewhere round there, Shoot them an e-mail most places are more than happy to work with you. I ordered some pegasus resin disc brakes once and only received part of the order, they sent me a handful and I had them within a week. Never know if you don't try

As for the headlights, next time try sticking it in the freezer I've heard that helps to separate the parts. I hear ya on the BMF bit, I wish I could get it local. It sucks having to have a sheet shipped to you by itself, by the time the shipping is paid for you could have bought 2 sheets, or a set of wheels or other goodies. On the hood pins. Next time you are in wal mart go to the health and beauty supplies and pick up some of the bulk pack cheap nail files. THey are great for removing detail. They work rather quickly because of the grit, but once followed with some 800 grit to clean up, your golden. Sometimes it takes 800, primer and again with the 800 a time or two. Just keep an eye out when you sand off details, mold lines, badges, etc. A lot of times you get ghosting. I had a can of white plastic primer from duplicolor, but I cannot find it. I was going to give that a go and see if it prevented the ghosting. One way to get around that is to go to Home Depot and pick up a spray can of Zinser BIN. Prime, once your happy with the body work, spray with the BIN and it will seal everything off and all of the ghosting from the primer will not show through on the finished paint.