1/25th Camaro quickie and another of the GTO

[city_ofthe_south]

Originally Posted by black2002ls

We all run into these little issues on our builds from time to time. Hobby Linc, I think I've ordered from them, they are on the east coast right? Georgia or alabama or somewhere round there, Shoot them an e-mail most places are more than happy to work with you. I ordered some pegasus resin disc brakes once and only received part of the order, they sent me a handful and I had them within a week. Never know if you don't try

As for the headlights, next time try sticking it in the freezer I've heard that helps to separate the parts. I hear ya on the BMF bit, I wish I could get it local. It sucks having to have a sheet shipped to you by itself, by the time the shipping is paid for you could have bought 2 sheets, or a set of wheels or other goodies. On the hood pins. Next time you are in wal mart go to the health and beauty supplies and pick up some of the bulk pack cheap nail files. THey are great for removing detail. They work rather quickly because of the grit, but once followed with some 800 grit to clean up, your golden. Sometimes it takes 800, primer and again with the 800 a time or two. Just keep an eye out when you sand off details, mold lines, badges, etc. A lot of times you get ghosting. I had a can of white plastic primer from duplicolor, but I cannot find it. I was going to give that a go and see if it prevented the ghosting. One way to get around that is to go to Home Depot and pick up a spray can of Zinser BIN. Prime, once your happy with the body work, spray with the BIN and it will seal everything off and all of the ghosting from the primer will not show through on the finished paint.

I just called them a minute ago and they were real cool except I had to do it online. So I sent in my request (i'm actually over the 30 day period but they don't see to mind) and I'm supposed to get an email back in a couple days to let me know if they are going to let me send them back. I think Georgia is right. I don't have the box they came in either ....
I've been using the cheap nail files and they are great ... i like being able to cut them down and get into tight spaces. Even so, the hood pins on the Challenger are right next to that spiffy little shape ... how do I describe it ... even if you had a flat hood there is a shape molded in that follows onto the tops of the fenders. Does that make sense? I had a hell of a time getting ANYTHING into that aread without rounding off those body lines.

Another thing is that my glass is messed up so I'm working on getting Revell to send me a new one without a receipt or UPC or instruction sheet or anything else cause I don't have any of it.

[mlomaka]

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.

[black2002ls]

Originally Posted by mlomaka

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.

I'm definitely going to have to remember that liquid cement tip

[city_ofthe_south]

Originally Posted by mlomaka

All those things can be very agrevating. I have used layers of masking tape to save surounding details and body lines. What I have done with things like hood pins (and even name plates & door handles) is trim it as far down with an exacto knife, sand, and then a little trick to prevent ghosting, bush a thin coat of testors or MM liquid cement over it and wait for it to dry. It will "relax" the plastic so it doesn't reappear. And I just sand it back down again when it is dry. Just a thought, I dont know how factory correct you are trying to make this, but I know 71 Challengers had a rubber (or what ever it is called) bumper option. So you could get away with painting them with the rest of the car. I am doing that on my 71.

ha, there is going to be nothing correct about any of my cars. I'm all about modified and since they're models i'm just doing whatever i think is cool. Since my paint crinkled slightly i took out the 600 grit and knocked it down then gave it another coat ... that ALLLLL most got rid of all ghosting so i'm pretty happy with my progress at this point. i'll be remembering that tip with the cement though ... it's funny that you say that because just last night i was looking at yet another hood hole i filled on an AMT Challenger and noticed that the very thinnest styrene i used on the under side of the hood actually molded itself into the contours of the underside of the hood where it wasn't exactly flat .... like it had melted from the cement.
i thought about painting the bumpers but i just don wanna! it's gonna be a black car and it would look so killer with chrome bumpers, my big chrome wheels.... oh yeah. I need to order a few things, including more wheels so i'll get some various items all at once .... there is a hobby lobby near by (kinda) that i'm go see if they have any of this fun stuff - BMF, wheels, more models, you know.

[city_ofthe_south]

alright i put on the clear, things are going well enough BUT i got some ultra thin krome foil .... yeah i'm getting the impression that this crap is useless huh? It's certainly NOT chrome ... "aluminum" maybe if that was the look you're going for. Unless there is something i'm not doing *shrug* .... at any rate are there certain brands or something of BMF that are better than the next? I haven't used it before.

[black2002ls]

BMF is Bare Metal Foil. thats the product name. Maybe the brand name too. Its First class where as the rest are second rate. I've not used any foil to date.

[city_ofthe_south]

Originally Posted by black2002ls

BMF is Bare Metal Foil. thats the product name. Maybe the brand name too. Its First class where as the rest are second rate. I've not used any foil to date.

yeah after i posted that i went digging around some more and i think you're right about it being the brand and everything ... at any rate, i went to their website and that is it was it's called. they describe it exactly like what i purchased though but this was made by model master. it sucks. It looks to me like the parts you get with a model kit or even something like pegasus wheels are chromed differently than just using some sort of stick on foil ... i want to know how they do that. then i would really be kickin ass. i guess i'll order actual BMF and see how it works but it better be mirror finish. they also have black chrome which i think might be pretty cool to get. is there a reason you don't use foil? do you know some dirty secret that i need to know? the mold lines on the bumpers really bug me when i spent so much time getting the rest of the car so nice.

[mlomaka]

Yea, Bare Metal is better than Mpdel Master stuff. Even that will only look so good. The chrome in kits and on Pegasus wheels is an actual plating. You can send stuff out attached to a "tree" to some place like ChromeTech. Prep work is very important. You can have no scratches or they will show up. There is a newer paint system, I forget the name right now (Alclad?). I have seen some good results in photos, just not in person.