Is anyone using a Mark VIII Fan to cool your car?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by tyoneal

To All:

Does anyone know if the distance of 6 inches between the tip of the water pump to the rear of the radiator would make it possible to install the Mark III Fan?

Also, Where would you recommend buying it and the accessories needed for a correct installation?

What kind of price can I expect to pay for it.

Thanks,

Ty O'Neal

the fan is 22" by 18.5" by 6.25" deep. The motor is offset slightly so in most cases you can simply slide the fan over enough to clear the water pump pulley if the clearance is close.

You can also trim the shroud approximately 1" to get even more room, so in your case the fan should clear easily, but may need to be trimmed.

Due to their popularity they have gone up in recent years, but they are still the best solution I've seen. They are right at $200 from Rock Auto (Motorcraft RF64) and you'll find them for a few bucks cheaper on Ebay. Just make sure it's the 97-later fan as it's a higher rated fan; the earlier Mark VIII fan is not the same, although it would be plenty for almost all applications.


Jody

[tyoneal]

Originally Posted by camcojb

the fan is 22" by 18.5" by 6.25" deep. The motor is offset slightly so in most cases you can simply slide the fan over enough to clear the water pump pulley if the clearance is close.

You can also trim the shroud approximately 1" to get even more room, so in your case the fan should clear easily, but may need to be trimmed.

Due to their popularity they have gone up in recent years, but they are still the best solution I've seen. They are right at $200 from Rock Auto (Motorcraft RF64) and you'll find them for a few bucks cheaper on Ebay. Just make sure it's the 97-later fan as it's a higher rated fan; the earlier Mark VIII fan is not the same, although it would be plenty for almost all applications.


Jody

==========================================
Jody:

Thanks for the info. Sounds like the right system. Hopefully a permanent Fix.

Ty

[JUSTANOVA]

http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

You can get the fan pre-trimmed from these guys to a total depth of 5" . I got mine from them pre-trimmed and it was a very nice trim job and they put a rubber seal around the fan where they trimmed it.

they also have a fan that has a bit less cfm, but is only 4" deep too

[marolf101x]

In an effort to save a fellow Pro-tourer some coin here's my opinion:

If you have the SPAL dual 11-inch fan you should be able to make it cool as well or better than the Ford unit.
Here's a few tips:
-make sure the fan shroud is touching the core and covering as much as possible
-I like to use strips of rubber so the fan shroud can touch the radiator core
-this ensures all air is being pulled through the radiator, not around the fan shroud
-place the condensor as close to the radiator core as you can (or use foam strips like the factory does)
-this also keeps air moving through the core
-use a high-end radiator
-BeCool is ok
-I prefer Ron Davis (http://www.rondavisradiators.com/), C&R (http://www.crracing.com/), or Performance Rod and Custom (http://www.prchotrod.com/)
-DO NOT listen to "that set-up will only handle 600HP"
-it's all about how efficiently your cooling system can extract heat from the water. It has nothing to do with how much power you make. (generally speaking the more power, the hotter the engine runs, but it's a poor way of gaging what you need.)
-if you water pump is moving the water, and your radiator is removing the heat from the water, it will work
-removing heat depends on thermal efficiency. This is dictated by airflow, how long you hold the water in the radiator, and how efficient the radiator design is

I mention all of this only because I happen to have the attached graph. This is a graph supplied by SPAL illustrating the Ford unit as tested on SPAL's equipment. If this is correct, simply replacing the fan will not solve the problem as the cfm rating of the Ford unit is actually under the dual 11 (especially under static conditions)

I'm not bashing the Ford fan. It is huge and pulls a lot of air. However, I'd hate to see you drop a few hundred bucks only to find it was something else.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by marolf101x

In an effort to save a fellow Pro-tourer some coin here's my opinion:

If you have the SPAL dual 11-inch fan you should be able to make it cool as well or better than the Ford unit.
Here's a few tips:
-make sure the fan shroud is touching the core and covering as much as possible
-I like to use strips of rubber so the fan shroud can touch the radiator core
-this ensures all air is being pulled through the radiator, not around the fan shroud
-place the condensor as close to the radiator core as you can (or use foam strips like the factory does)
-this also keeps air moving through the core
-use a high-end radiator
-BeCool is ok
-I prefer Ron Davis (http://www.rondavisradiators.com/), C&R (http://www.crracing.com/), or Performance Rod and Custom (http://www.prchotrod.com/)
-DO NOT listen to "that set-up will only handle 600HP"
-it's all about how efficiently your cooling system can extract heat from the water. It has nothing to do with how much power you make. (generally speaking the more power, the hotter the engine runs, but it's a poor way of gaging what you need.)
-if you water pump is moving the water, and your radiator is removing the heat from the water, it will work
-removing heat depends on thermal efficiency. This is dictated by airflow, how long you hold the water in the radiator, and how efficient the radiator design is

I mention all of this only because I happen to have the attached graph. This is a graph supplied by SPAL illustrating the Ford unit as tested on SPAL's equipment. If this is correct, simply replacing the fan will not solve the problem as the cfm rating of the Ford unit is actually under the dual 11 (especially under static conditions)

I'm not bashing the Ford fan. It is huge and pulls a lot of air. However, I'd hate to see you drop a few hundred bucks only to find it was something else.

I disagree. I've had both, and the dual Spal can't keep up with the Mark VIII fan. I'm speaking of the later model Mark VIII (97-later I believe), not the earlier one. I know their drawing isn't accurate as the late-model Mark VIII flows over 4000 cfm. Well, either that or they're misleading you by comparing to the older Mark VIII.

I had the dual Spal exactly set up as you've shown and my car would still hit 210 at idle with the a/c on a 100+ degree day. With no changes but the fan swap it wouldn't break 190. That tells me the Mark VIII definitely has more airflow.

Jody

[68protouring454]

Originally Posted by camcojb

I disagree. I've had both, and the dual Spal can't keep up with the Mark VIII fan. I'm speaking of the later model Mark VIII (97-later I believe), not the earlier one. I know their drawing isn't accurate as the late-model Mark VIII flows over 4000 cfm. Well, either that or they're misleading you by comparing to the older Mark VIII.

I had the dual Spal exactly set up as you've shown and my car would still hit 210 at idle with the a/c on a 100+ degree day. With no changes but the fan swap it wouldn't break 190. That tells me the Mark VIII definitely has more airflow.

Jody
Jody

agreed, mark wests 509 camaro at pigeon forge had twin 11 inch spals and it would enot go below 210, vinnys car had twin 13 inch spals on a junk be cool radiator and it would run 190 with short times at 200 till the fans caught up.
mark viii for me from now on

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by 68protouring454

agreed, mark wests 509 camaro at pigeon forge had twin 11 inch spals and it would enot go below 210, vinnys car had twin 13 inch spals on a junk be cool radiator and it would run 190 with short times at 200 till the fans caught up.
mark viii for me from now on

I agree Jake. I have the twin Spals on my Ron Davis radiator, but if the car runs hot at idle I will not hesitate to swap to the later Mark VIII; been there, done that, it flat out works.

By the way, got the new Iwata W400, thanks for the advice.
Jody

[68protouring454]

Originally Posted by camcojb

I agree Jake. I have the twin Spals on my Ron Davis radiator, but if the car runs hot at idle I will not hesitate to swap to the later Mark VIII; been there, done that, it flat out works.

By the way, got the new Iwata W400, thanks for the advice.
Jody

Cool any questions you know how to get ahold of me
yeah lesson learned on vins car, wait for ron davis to make one, or do cheap radiator, mark viii fan, be cool stuff is ok, but does not warrant the price, looks cheap