Sneak peak at my 66 Cutlass

[gearheads78]

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[SteveMcqueenRules]

wow that must feel good to drop off ugly rusty parts and get back nice shiny stuff!

[gearheads78]

Originally Posted by SteveMcqueenRules

wow that must feel good to drop off ugly rusty parts and get back nice shiny stuff!

Yes it does

I was off today and worked in the shop most of the day. Lots of minor progress. A few steps forward and a step back :oops:

I started getting things ready for the manual conversion with the TKO600.
My first thisng to do was see if and how much I needed to drill the crank for input shaft clearance. In process of measuring I noticticed the pilot bearing I got was out of spec. I called Supercars and they are rushing another out.

I did need to bore the crank. I went to a local industrial machine tool surplus store and picked up a couple bits to drill the hard crank material. One was a 1/4" and the other .798 to give me plenty of clearance from the input shaft. I love that place $10.00 for both bits.

I knew it would never be perfect with a hand drill but I wanted to get as close as I could. To do this I set the motor on wood blocks and shimmed it up until it was level at the pan rails. I the drilled at a slow speed and used the bubble on the drill to keep it level up and down. I eyeballed the side to side by having a long bolt to the crank to reference to. About a full hour of drilling I'm sure glad that is over.




Since I got powdercoating back. I also got my scatter shield from them. Luckily I had read the it would need clearanced for the lower pushrod. They had already blasted but I called before it was coated. I mocked it up and trimmed it off with a plasma cutter.



The next thing I did was check the runout of the bellhousing. Its just a hair out of recommended specs but better safe than sorry I ordered some .007 off set dowel to correct it.

I tried to remove the dowels with vise grips and a little heat but all they would do is spin. I decided to make a makeshift puller by tacking a 1/2" nut on the dowels. I then took a 1/2" bolt and another nut and pull them right out by pressing against the back side of a larger socket. They came right out.

[gearheads78]

continued from last post do to picture limits




The last thing of the night was work on the front lower control arms. Iv'e done bushings and ball joints a few times but never with nice new finshed pieces. The ball joints worked out pretty good. I used duct tape and pieces of broken up paint sticks to push against. It worked out great with no damage to the finish.

I then went to the bushings and things didn't go quite as well. My first idea was to just put both bushings in and press against each other till they seat. WRONG!!! The arm started bending and when I released pressure it did not defect all the way back. Now I have to figure out a way to bend it back without damaging the finish. I've got an idea I will try Sunday when I am off again.

The next arm I did a different way and it worked great. I got a piece of 1/2" all thread to pull against. I then cut a piece of pipe to just smaller than the inside width cut it in half and wraped with tape. I then cut a piece of 3/8" plate in a circle and drilled a hole in the middle. I welded that to a 2" iron pipe coupler and wrapped with tape. Then slid the halves to keep the end of the arm from pushing together. Finally bolted it all together untill the shells were seated. Once I made the tool all 4 bushing were took less than 10 min total.

[gearheads78]

No progress today but the parts pile did get 4 boxes bigger

[ProTouring442]

Just a question... when you checked the bell housing run out, did you rotate the crank to ensure that you were measuring the bell housing and not the hand drilled pilot bearing?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[gearheads78]

Originally Posted by ProTouring442

Just a question... when you checked the bell housing run out, did you rotate the crank to ensure that you were measuring the bell housing and not the hand drilled pilot bearing?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

The runout was measured off a long 7/16 bolt in the crank flange. Pilot hole is not for the pilot bearing. Its to clear in the input shaft. There is an adapter bearing that slides into the large register and has a bearing in the center. I hear mixed revues about them. Some say they have lasted for years with one othes have said they lost on in less than 5000 miles. I don't have the time to remove the crank and have it machined for a factory bushing so this is the only way I can go for now. The 455 will be done right with a bushing.

Here is the adapter bearing. Thanks for taking interest in my project. Its nothing compared to a lot of builds around here but its being done on a very limited budget on what little night time and weekend time I can find.