what makes the best black paint - Lateral-g Forums

NovaBlue71 · #1 07-30-2008, 05:02 PM

What you really need to do is get with a painter or paint supplier and see what black's are offered in the paint line of your choice. There are a few different shades of black's some black's will look almost yellow compared to some. Look for a black that has some blue shade to it. Glasurit has a #1250 deep black that is nice and rich looking.But all the paint companies have alot to chose from.If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe.

porkchop · #2 07-30-2008, 05:20 PM

Chris that car is killer! Best black paint job I've ever seen.

rwhite692 · #3 07-30-2008, 08:51 PM

Hey Joe can you elaborate on what you mean by "urethane wave"? I've always done the 1000/1500/2000 cutting...are you talking about waves caused by wetsanding with 1000, ie what some of us refer to as getting "finger marks"? If that's what you mean then yes I understand..Thanks -Rob

NovaBlue71 · #4 07-31-2008, 03:56 PM

Rob,urethane wave is the flutter or cellulite look when you sight down a panel. It alot times looks like ripply bodywork. If you have sprayed any of the high solids european clear's you'll see what I'm talking about.1000,1500,2000 has been good rule of thumb on what works on most clears but with the european stuff you really need to step up with something coarser if you want to cut it crisp and flat.Hope that clear's up any questions you had. see ya Joe.

rwhite692 · #5 07-31-2008, 05:33 PM

Thanks Joe my experience has been mostly limited to DuPont and PPG clears; I have not tried the Euro clears like Akzo/Sikkens, BASF/Glasurit but I have heard that they are significantly harder, so what you are saying makes sense. When you are using these clears, are you cutting them starting at like 800? ...And I would appreciate your opinion on which of the Euro clears you have had good experience with. -Rob

kovert · #6 07-31-2008, 06:17 PM

this is good info thanks guys .... fesler what brand paint is used on that camaro ???? ppg?

ive shot ppg dupont and the shop i work at now uses diamont / basf .. its nice stuff ive allso heard debears is is a real nice aswell

and si if its a harder clear to cut and buff does this euro clear more durable or les likely to get fine scratches after buffing???? last car i shot black i used trans something and it scratched real easy

Yenko boy · #7 07-02-2009, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kovert

this is good info thanks guys .... fesler what brand paint is used on that camaro ???? ppg?

ive shot ppg dupont and the shop i work at now uses diamont / basf .. its nice stuff ive allso heard debears is is a real nice aswell

and si if its a harder clear to cut and buff does this euro clear more durable or les likely to get fine scratches after buffing???? last car i shot black i used trans something and it scratched real easy

Doing some research on black paint I was also wondering what brand of paint fesler used on this camaro? Thanks...

fesler · #8 08-03-2008, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NovaBlue71

If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe.

That may be IYO but you cant go wrong with preping the car right. Look at our paint work and you will see why we do what we do. The finish project looks deep and on black that is what you want. IMO this is one of the best black paint jobs I have seen and my painter has been painting for over 30 years now so he knows what he is doing and I would never question work that looks like this. Every painter has a different way of doing things.

Mr.VENGEANCE · #9 01-13-2010, 03:14 AM

Back from the dead

Fesler, who makes that black paint on that 69?

or anyone on here know of the best Blueish/Greyish black

the darkest?

thanks!

Speedzone1 · #10 01-23-2010, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NovaBlue71

What you really need to do is get with a painter or paint supplier and see what black's are offered in the paint line of your choice. There are a few different shades of black's some black's will look almost yellow compared to some. Look for a black that has some blue shade to it. Glasurit has a #1250 deep black that is nice and rich looking.But all the paint companies have alot to chose from.If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe.

Absolutely! For a pristine finish, we always start color sanding with 500-600 grit paper. 1000 will never get it totally flat. Of course, I always make sure to put 5-6 coats of clear on so there is a good margin of clear left after sanding.