Whats the best 4-link for second gen camaro

[rich-allen]

Originally Posted by holschen

http://www.maxgsystems.com/presenter...aspx?Id=104637
looks good but there´s to little info about this kit on this board??

Look over to your left, Max-G is a sponsor of this site

[holschen]

Originally Posted by rich-allen

Look over to your left, Max-G is a sponsor of this site

but between the g-bar air-bar and max-g whats best for high speedperformance ??
still very little info about the max-g system

thanks eye up Rich

[Marcus SC&C]

The coil over version of the AirBar is the G-Bar. It`s been out for several years now and has built a great reputation. It works great on the street and suprisingly well on the race track too. The "Prodigy Bar" is the Airbar with coilovers but with heims and adj. links. You can retrofit any G Bar with those for a few bucks with parts from any racing catalog. If the cars going to see a lot of street miles I wouldn`t. Heims transfer more NVH to the chassis and wear much faster than bushings. Our rule of thumb is that if it runs open headers then heims are fine. In a very clean environment they can hold up for a while but here in PA. we end up replacing even the most expensive heims every few years because they`re buzzing and rattling. We`ve got drawers full of them from client`s cars that we recycle on off road stuff where we don`t care if they rattle. There are 1st Gen Camaros outrunning new twin turbo,all wheel drive Nissan GT-Rs on the road race track with the standard G-Bar. You`ll see articles on it in the car rags in a couple months. Honestly I was suprised and I helped them set the Camaro up! My point is that it doesn`t necessarily have to be "upgraded" to perform well. I`d be very comfortable going for the G-Bar and never look back. I`ve been looking for a `78 TranAm to put one in myself. Here`s one of our clients cars with the G Bar.

The Max-G stuff is made by kit car company Highland Daytona Racing. They`re about 45 minutes from us. It`s race car stuff. If you`re building a race car and are sold on a satchell link then it might be worth checking out. Oddly for a race oriented piece it has no geometry adjustability. As many mufflers and I`ve smashed on my lowered 2nd Gens (8 of em) the height of that one crossmember makes me a little nervous. Mark SC&C

[ProdigyCustoms]

Below is The Prodigy Bar WITH the sway bar option at work on the Autocross and dragstrip. On the autocross we did good but as you can see I am no autocross driver and the car had a lot more in it. A real driver would have been right there with the better performances which were in the 37s for the most part except for a couple standouts that ran high 36s. I was slowing way to soon for the corners and babying it through the corners far to much. Being the straight liner I am you can see me get "comfortable" on the straights.

On the dragstrip, We lost the throttle cable half way through first gear, but you can see the thing hooks up pretty well with nearly 700 torque on the dragstrip and has no wheel hop even in a burnout with 100MPH wheel speed.

I have had the chance to use the car both with and without the conversion to the Rod Ends, and the car simply works better with the rod ends then with the urethane bushings. There is just no bind now, plain and simple.

I really do believe this is the best hooking suspension you can buy that handles too.

As Marcus mentioned, the Kevlar rod ends are absolutly for clean use in casual driven cars that are rode hard. They ARE NOT for everyday drivers. However, they are only $26 to replace, and take 5 minutes each to change. So for our cars that are drag or autocross on weekend, or just driven hard in good weather.



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