Moser 60 and Wilwood 14"

[ProdigyCustoms]

Those studs do look different. I will make the call Monday.

[bigtyme1]

Frank, I had the same problem with mine when I installed them. All I did was took a sand paper boring toll and cleaned the hole on the rotors a little. Slips on and off fine now.

[Apogee]

I'd just open up the rotors to fit the studs (or let Frank do it since he so graciously offered) and then countersink the backside of the wheel if necessary. I would think that with the rotors in place, the wheel shouldn't have any issues since it'll be moved outward by the thickness of the hat, but maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture.

I know that with several of the more popular ARP options, the knurl/shoulder length of the studs do tend to protrude through the rear axle flanges. The studs you pictured appear to be an OE replacement stud, but I can't quite make out the three digit number on the head to cross reference it to its application. Stock steel drum hubs up front will see the same thing...the nice thing is that most aluminum hubs have sufficiently thicker flanges that it's typically a non-issue.

Tobin
KORE3

[ProdigyCustoms]

OK, Moser says the studs are the same one they have always used. So it looks like some of the rotors / hats have a slightly smaller lug hole bore.

Michael informs me that we have also taken a cartridge roll to the lug holes in the shop for clearance. Shows you what I know!

No worries about going to large, the center bore will keep the rotor where it needs to be.

As for the wheels no slipping over the studs...that is a new one, but a tiny camfer on the lug holes with a burr bit would take care of that pretty quickly.

[deuce_454]

i had the same problem on my ats spindles with ARP studs.. the knurl on the studs protrudes thru that flange, simply chamfer the 5 holes in the rotor hat on the rear face and they will slip right on...

[chicane]

This isnt really a "new" issue... in fact, it's rather common when using various manufacturers in any given build.

What I have observed with some of the newer hat's... and in specific to the newer offerings from various manufacturers... is that the hard coating/anno thickness is the most likely cause for the dimentional changes of the hole. There is no standardized coating thickness and at times when new parts are created or when you source 'other' companies for coating hard parts... it can go sometimes unnoticed. Next would be an insufficient chamfer for the portruding knurl shoulder of the fastner itself. With the available manufacturers for fastners... it falls under the same premise.

Since there is no real common diamention for this peticular (issue) process... as the variables are too great between manufacturers, pre-assembly becomes paramount, to address the unknown.

I believe the easiest solution, would be to simply ream the flange side of the hole. Machining isnt really necessary.

[RaiderLefty]

GT.........I just ran into this very same problem on my '68 Road Runner (with the 8-3/4"). The studs are 0.50" diameter at the thread but then step out to 0.615 shoulder right before it goes into the flange. I took a 5/8" drill bit and adjusted the depth on the drill press so that it wouldn't go all the way through the rotor. This essentially put a 45deg chamfer on the hole and let it bolt up flush.

I also had to take a die-grinder to the center hole on the rotor as it wouldn't clear a minor step in the center cap. I had to take off approx 0.10" on the rotor in order to get it to bolt up flush.

I spoke with both Frank and Dustin (Wilwood) yesterday and was told that was the easiest solution.

FYI.........I have the same rear brake setup you're installing and am also going to run Forgelines.