Those of you who run a full frame under your 1st gen Camaro

[fleetus macmullitz]

I think a lot of people like this LS7 car below that Tom has posted on various boards recently. I prefer the real subtle exteriors and the redlines on these copo style cars. Park the thing on the street and have it get ignored is fine by me. I also really like what you, Rupp and Callahan have done to name just a few.

Anything but subtle!

[Flash68]

Haven't seen that car posted anywhere. That's a pretty sweet sleeper look with that LS7. I like it.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Haven't seen that car posted anywhere. That's a pretty sweet sleeper look with that LS7. I like it.

Here's one of the threads Dave.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55272

[AJSZR2326]

you asked about a full frame, its for added rigidity , put enough hp in to a stock f body and it will twist.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by AJSZR2326

you asked about a full frame, its for added rigidity , put enough hp in to a stock f body and it will twist.

Exactly why I'm considering one.

I'd like to know if the extra time and money is worth the additional stiffness so I'd like to know how a full frame car compares to a 1st gen stiffened with all the usual components i.e. cage, sub-frame connectors

Interested in feedback from guys with a full frame 1st gen them or those here who have driven a car with one enough to be able to point out the differences.

Thanks...

[tones2SS]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Haven't seen that car posted anywhere. That's a pretty sweet sleeper look with that LS7. I like it.

I agree.
I've never seen it before. I like it.

[ironworks]

Just for another differing opinion.

I'm thinking a 1000 hours is alot and 100 hours if your sheetmetal work if going to be Bondo'd up. If memory serves me correct Alloway makes his floors out of 10 gauge steel.

I think a more reasonable number is maybe 400-500 hours with sheetmetal and tub work. I suppose you could build drag race 2 sides wheel tubes and glue the tub to the quarter panel, but we build the tub to have 3 sides and attach to the quarter like the factor one. I also think you have to take into account the fact you have to rework quite a few things. Gas tank needs new mounts, The brake pedal might drag on the floor or hang just a bit to low, Plus you cannot just shorten the pedal or you lose the ratio. You have to do new seat mounts in the floor. I'm sure there are a handful of other things that come up with doing a full frame especially in a camaro.

When We do the the tube frame stuff, we have to reinvent the wheel practically. Steering mounts different, brake pedals mount different, It is a never ending list of things that need to be changed to make things proper.
With the tube frame cars we build we are able to place the tube structure in a position to gain the most interior room. I'm 6'6" tall and can sit in John's ZO6 with a helmet on and the car has a rocker height of 5" and nothing hangs below that. But we ran the exhaust under the torque tube not under the seats. Plus the seats we have in Johns car are super tall. Putting seats in a stock camaro is hard enough if your above average height at all.


Just my 2 cents. We have a full tube frame we are building for a camaro right now. 5" of ground clearance, 47.5" to the roof at ride height with 19's and 20's. Should be interesting.

[fleetus macmullitz]

You're right, there are a lot of additional work to take into consideration going full frame.

I'm not going to run a cage because this car's main purpose is street use.

I still want it stiff enough to handle 600 bhp and occasional track use.

[ironworks]

Originally Posted by WaterCooledNelds

You're right, there are a lot of additional work to take into consideration going full frame.

I'm not going to run a cage because this car's main purpose is street use.

I still want it stiff enough to handle 600 bhp and occasional track use.

Main purpose or not a 600hp car that might see the track at all needs some kind of cage. Even a full framed car is going to flex and I would want the cage for safety reasons. Not running a cage is like saying " The main purpose of this car is to not go over 30mph, so I don't need seat belts, But I might go 50mph once in a while." But I will still skip the belts.

If your going to drive the car anywhere you might need a helmet, I would install a rollcage.

Even in the rookie run sessions at an open track day, you could see speeds above 70mph pretty easy at any given track, especially with 600hp. At a track like Buttonwillow where it would take amazing talent to hit a wall, you have the infield that had rolled a few cars that missed the turn or braked too late. They tell you in the drivers meeting if you go off the track just go straight and or only turn a bit, NO sharp turns to avoid a roll over. I would hate to be the guy who had to turn or slid off the track in a skid and happened to catch a rut and found out too late "Man I should have installed even a 4 point cage."


One of my first times at the track I saw a guy with a bad ass Cobra mustang run a few laps and at the end of the big staright away got on the brakes and just kept right on sailing, Through the grass, the infield and off into BFE. He had the stock cobra brakes and I would guess the engine made more HP then the Brakes could stop multiple times from the high speed the engine could propel the car too. I bet he decided as soon as he hit the Brakes and nothing happened....... I should have called WWWWIIIIILLLLLWWWOOOODD.


Track events are serious deals and require alot more then an autocross or street car. Unless your just out there for parade laps....

[fleetus macmullitz]

Rodger,

I should have clarified, I'm not planning a welded in cage, but I'll make provisions for the Ride Tech Tiger Cage.

Yes, safety is not something to gamble with, and I wouldn't.

Thanks.