Project "ItDoRun" - Phase Two

[70rs]

Originally Posted by ItDoRun

It's coming, but slowly. I've managed to get the subframe under the car and aligned to the best of my ability so that I could start welding in the DSE sub frame connectors. I've pulled about 6 million dimensions on the car and subframe. Some x dimensions are within a 1/16th and other dimensions like wheel base dimensions are about 3/8" off from side to side. I don't have the rear suspension under the car yet, so I'm doing my best in determining the 12:00 position on the quarter lip and then dropping a plumbob to the ground to find the center of the wheel opening to measure the wheel base. Who knows, I could be slightly off with my guessing. I did get the driver side floor cut out and the connector is fitted and ready to be welded. BUT before I weld it in, I think I'll hang the front sheetmetal one more time and measure some more.

I find myself trying to build a 68 Camaro with 2010 specs, and it just ain't happening to work out the best for me. I'll be posting pictures soon hopefully. The holidays were supposed to be time for me to work on the car, but that it didn't happen! Stay tuned.

Good idea to re hang the front sheetmetal before final welding. You can NEVER measure enough to be sure things are where they should be. Where are you pulling the dimensions from at the front of the car to check your wheel base? And did you check the body shell for square using the alignment holes up front(for the sub frame) and cross back to the front of the leaf spring mount? Did either of those leaf spring mounts get replaced?

[ItDoRun]

Originally Posted by 70rs

Good idea to re hang the front sheetmetal before final welding. You can NEVER measure enough to be sure things are where they should be. Where are you pulling the dimensions from at the front of the car to check your wheel base? And did you check the body shell for square using the alignment holes up front(for the sub frame) and cross back to the front of the leaf spring mount? Did either of those leaf spring mounts get replaced?

Actually, I had the front sheet metal on the car and rough fitted last week. It fit really well. I used several areas to measure from. The four main points I started with were the 2 dowel pin holes located in the front subrame mount. I also used the two 5/8" holes at the front of the rear frame rails (same holes you're talking about). I measured front to back on each side and am within an 1/8". I then measure diagonally and am still within an 1/8". I then dropped a plumbob from the core support holes in the front of the subframe and measured diagonally again to the holes in the rear frame rails. Actually this measurement is within 1/16".

I tried to check wheel base, but like I mentioned, I have no rear suspension in the car yet. I tried to get the most accurate 12:00 position on the quarter lip and dropped a plumbob from there. I then dropped a plumbob from the center of the lower ball joint and measured front to back. The drivers side measures 108-3/8" and the passenger side is dead on 108" which is what it was SUPPOSED to be from GM. I figure since I'll be running an adjustable 4 link, the 3/8" probably won't matter too much since I'll be able to move things around in the back.

My biggest concern right now is that before I started this build, I had installed some LS1 brakes on the front of the car. Because of the rim, I had to use a 1/2" spacer and of course it pushed the rim out further. When I did this, the passenger side wheel stuck out considerably more than the driver side. I personally, had never removed the front subframe and who knows if it was square to begin with. With the drum barkes and no wheel spacer, I never noticed it.

So, I need to make sure the subframe is not off left to right before I weld the connectors in.

[70rs]

Originally Posted by ItDoRun

Actually, I had the front sheet metal on the car and rough fitted last week. It fit really well. I used several areas to measure from. The four main points I started with were the 2 dowel pin holes located in the front subrame mount. I also used the two 5/8" holes at the front of the rear frame rails (same holes you're talking about). I measured front to back on each side and am within an 1/8". I then measure diagonally and am still within an 1/8". I then dropped a plumbob from the core support holes in the front of the subframe and measured diagonally again to the holes in the rear frame rails. Actually this measurement is within 1/16".

I tried to check wheel base, but like I mentioned, I have no rear suspension in the car yet. I tried to get the most accurate 12:00 position on the quarter lip and dropped a plumbob from there. I then dropped a plumbob from the center of the lower ball joint and measured front to back. The drivers side measures 108-3/8" and the passenger side is dead on 108" which is what it was SUPPOSED to be from GM. I figure since I'll be running an adjustable 4 link, the 3/8" probably won't matter too much since I'll be able to move things around in the back.

My biggest concern right now is that before I started this build, I had installed some LS1 brakes on the front of the car. Because of the rim, I had to use a 1/2" spacer and of course it pushed the rim out further. When I did this, the passenger side wheel stuck out considerably more than the driver side. I personally, had never removed the front subframe and who knows if it was square to begin with. With the drum barkes and no wheel spacer, I never noticed it.

So, I need to make sure the subframe is not off left to right before I weld the connectors in.

With the new 4 link rear you will be able to adjust A LOT of things in the rear suspension and get it dialed. That 3/8" shouldn't make any difference by the time it is all settled in.

For the sub frame, if you measured all of those points and it is looking as good as it is then you should be ok with the wheels fitting right and looking symetrical as far as width goes compared to the fenders. Now if the core support or some other structure up front is bent and throwing the fender positions off you will have to correct that. But you said the mock up looked good at this point.

Do you have any way to finish the entire front end mock up with tires, suspension, brakes, inner fenders ....that will show everything and you will be able to fix any issues prior to paint.

[ItDoRun]

Originally Posted by 70rs

With the new 4 link rear you will be able to adjust A LOT of things in the rear suspension and get it dialed. That 3/8" shouldn't make any difference by the time it is all settled in.

For the sub frame, if you measured all of those points and it is looking as good as it is then you should be ok with the wheels fitting right and looking symetrical as far as width goes compared to the fenders. Now if the core support or some other structure up front is bent and throwing the fender positions off you will have to correct that. But you said the mock up looked good at this point.

Do you have any way to finish the entire front end mock up with tires, suspension, brakes, inner fenders ....that will show everything and you will be able to fix any issues prior to paint.

Yeah, I can bolt everything up. The stock front suspension is still on the subframe and I have everything else. I mocked everything up excluding the inner fenders and everything was pretty good. A few shims here and ther and it appears to be good. I'll have to double check a few things before I weld.

[ItDoRun]

Originally Posted by 70rs

Good idea to re hang the front sheetmetal before final welding. You can NEVER measure enough to be sure things are where they should be. Where are you pulling the dimensions from at the front of the car to check your wheel base? And did you check the body shell for square using the alignment holes up front(for the sub frame) and cross back to the front of the leaf spring mount? Did either of those leaf spring mounts get replaced?

Oh, and no to your question about the leaf spring mounts. My original torque boxes were in mint condition, so I decided to leave them welded to the frame rails so that the frame rails had no chance of moving when I removed the floor. I just cut the torque boxes off the new floor and left the originals in place.