1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by 68400BIRD

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized???

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

[Vegas69]

And that's because the rods have sleeves to align the cap and rod.

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by 1970camaroRS

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

I don't think you have to resize the rods on some of the LT1/4 stuff and vortec motors. The cracked beam powdered metal rods first came out in the LT1s. Just be sure the caps are not mixed up and they go on as they came off.

[1970camaroRS]

Worked my butt off last night. Got the oil pump installed and got the timing cover to fit right. It ended up working without the shims on the oil pump because the SLP pump is already clearanced for the double roller. I just had to tweek a few high spots on the back of the pump. I also, for the sake of science, got the cover to fit with the shims in place...but decided I liked the install without the shims. Didn't like the ammount of pre-load on the cover, I'm sure it would have leaked.

Also got the rod-bolts installed. Curious thing, the ARP instructions say the rods should be resized. Did a little digging and found that the instructions for the LS1 rodbolt kit are the same instructions that come with the SBC kit.

Pictures to come tonight.

[WSSix]

The rod and I believe main bearings on an LS1 are the same as an SBC. You can put the lifters into a roller L98/LT1/4 and that's about it that swaps or is the same.

Good build up you have going there.

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by WSSix

The rod and I believe main bearings on an LS1 are the same as an SBC. You can put the lifters into a roller L98/LT1/4 and that's about it that swaps or is the same.

Good build up you have going there.

It is the style of manufacturing that I was referring to on the rods. Powdered Metal rods are made as 1 piece then the rod caps cracked so you can attach them on the motor. As they are cracked the rod caps must go on the same rod in the same direction as they came off. Traditional rods are made as 2 seperate pieces.

Several Lt1 guys around here were running up to 600rwhp on 355 builds with forged piston, factory crank and factory powdered metal rods with blowers when the LT1 scene was big. As one builder said they can handle the power just don't drop them on the floor.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/51...scription.html has some more info on the manufacturing process.

[1970camaroRS]

First thing I wanted to say was that after a lot of research I found that this combo, the SLP double roller and SLP ported oil pump DOES NOT need to use the spacers. One side of the pump was REALLY close to the chain, so I gave it a little extra room with the grinder. I decided to make it fit with the shims in place as a how-to.

With the shim in place on the oil pump, this is what happened to the timing cover. Hard riding condition on the left side, minor one on the lower right.



I applied assembly grease to all the areas I suspect might ride or come close to the cover.





The only thing on this side that smashed flat was the area on the strengthening rib directly below the area SLP already clearanced. It even left a grease mark behind from the cover.



Another area that rode was near the pick-up tube boss. You can see the black grease that was left behind.



You can see on the cover the areas that were close to touching and those that hit solid. The solid hits not only left grease behind, but scratched off the coating of oil.



I then ground these areas(note: I did not have the proper tool for this job, a carbide bit would have saved me a LOT of time):







After a very through cleaning (as if rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe over and over), I was able to get the cover down without riding anything at all.



Side note: When I decided to run the pump without the shims, the passenger side of the pump was incredibly close to touching and likely would rub on the pump at operating temp and RPM. I snugged the pump in place, put grease on the timing chain and turned the motor over by hand multiple times. After removing the pump I could see a very faint outline where the chain was getting too close, so I clearenced these areas as little as possible for just a bit more room. There were, of course, no issues at all with the cover fitting in the configuration.

[1970camaroRS]

First thing's first, remove the existing rod bolt (only ONE at a time, very important!) using a long handled ratchet and a 11mm socket. After a good push, the torque with break and the bolt will come out in about 4-5 turns.



But, the bolt will not come out all of the way. I used a pair of vise-grips and yanked a few times until the ferrel loosened and the bolts came out with it.





Apply plenty of ARP lube (provided in the kit) to the bolt, especially under the head.



Then torque to 40lb-ft per ARP's instructions using a 10mm socket and your favorite trusty torque wrench.



Note: the instructions in the kit are hidden under the complimentary packet of lube. The instructions say you need to resize the rods, but I discovered these are the same instruction sheets provided in the SBC kits. You do not have to resize rods in GenIII motors when upgrading to ARP bolts.

So rinse, lather, repeat until all of the bolts are done. Then it's a good idea to go around a few more times, loosen each bolt one at a time and re-torque them. The debate rages on if you need to retorque or not, but I think it's a good idea and can't hurt anything.