Sputtering problem with 2002 mustang

[Jr]

Originally Posted by BlackenedRR

Look on the steering wheel, the problem is circled for ya! LOL!!!!! But really, I think Autozone does free code scanning still, might be a good place to start as stated above.

Very funny. I didn't pick the car.

[70rs]

Originally Posted by DJW32

Very funny. I didn't pick the car.

Just teasing. I actually just sold a 2000 GT Mustang a couple years ago. It was my wifes daily driver for a long time. I never had the same trouble you are and I wish I knew which direction to send you in. I think a scan at this time is your best bet.

[Jr]

Originally Posted by 70rs

Just teasing. I actually just sold a 2000 GT Mustang a couple years ago. It was my wifes daily driver for a long time. I never had the same trouble you are and I wish I knew which direction to send you in. I think a scan at this time is your best bet.

Yeah, I think that is the next step.

[BlackenedRR]

Originally Posted by DJW32

Very funny. I didn't pick the car.

You might also check for any Ford tech bulletins on this issue, just a thought.

[MizfitJon]

a scanner to check the fuel trims while acting up would be best! Vacumn leak would probably show up at idle also though. Surge in idle or fords like to shutter almost take off at idle while your on the brake with a vacumn leak. I bet its plugs though. Is there a slight delay while cruising and you load it up with heavy throttle? I would just pull the plugs and check them first, bet thats where you will find your issue

[MizfitJon]

oh...forgot to read the plugs were new! What brand? Hopefully motorcraft? If there some garage like bosch or something might as well throw them away! If they are motorcraft, check gap

[Jr]

Yes, they are motorcraft.

[Hydratech®]

If I recall correctly, this vintage of Mustang is MAF equipped (mass air flow). Air filters simply do not catch 100% = I'll bet you that the MAF sensor is dirty, which will cause drivability issues without necessarily setting codes (even highly experienced ASE Master Techs / Advanced Drivability Specialists miss this one). There should be two anti-tamper Torx screws holding the actual sensor (black plastic rectangular item) down to the MAF assembly casting. Remove the actual sensor and look for a tiny hotwire spot welded to 2 thicker pegs. Any dust, dirt, fuzz (and I mean magnifying glass visible) on the actual hot wire will insulate it from reading the appropriate amount of actual airflow entering the engine. The PCM adds fuel based upon the amount of air entering into the engine, and will skew the fuel tables to the lean side if it is reading low amounts of air to the PCM. Having said all of this, I advise you respect how delicate this sensor is. One wrong move and you will wreck it and they are not cheap to replace. This is also applicable to most all hotwire type MAF cars (there is also a siphon type design that is less sensitive to dirt) - you would be suprised how much better a vehicle can run when the MAF sensor is cleaned (providing it was dirty).

Hey wait a second, aren't you the hydroboost guy?? LOL

[Jr]

Paul,
I give take a look at it when she gets home.

[70rs]

Originally Posted by Hydratech

If I recall correctly, this vintage of Mustang is MAF equipped (mass air flow). Air filters simply do not catch 100% = I'll bet you that the MAF sensor is dirty, which will cause drivability issues without necessarily setting codes (even highly experienced ASE Master Techs / Advanced Drivability Specialists miss this one). There should be two anti-tamper Torx screws holding the actual sensor (black plastic rectangular item) down to the MAF assembly casting. Remove the actual sensor and look for a tiny hotwire spot welded to 2 thicker pegs. Any dust, dirt, fuzz (and I mean magnifying glass visible) on the actual hot wire will insulate it from reading the appropriate amount of actual airflow entering the engine. The PCM adds fuel based upon the amount of air entering into the engine, and will skew the fuel tables to the lean side if it is reading low amounts of air to the PCM. Having said all of this, I advise you respect how delicate this sensor is. One wrong move and you will wreck it and they are not cheap to replace. This is also applicable to most all hotwire type MAF cars (there is also a siphon type design that is less sensitive to dirt) - you would be suprised how much better a vehicle can run when the MAF sensor is cleaned (providing it was dirty).

Hey wait a second, aren't you the hydroboost guy?? LOL

that is some great info Paul. Thanks for posting it. I will keep it in mind for any future issues I may run into.