Got the SHAFT!!!!!!!!!

[69MyWay]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

running them outboard on the "frame". Of course this question really can't be answered because it all depends.

I set the cable up in this car just like all the Corvettes did from the factory did on the 3rd gen models. Running it along the side of the frame seems like an issue for any sort of T-bone accident which would likely short it out and cause a fire in a hurry.

I'm actually considering putting it back up front - except my air box is where the battery would go. I'd have to fit it in the driver fender front which would be kind of goofy too.

[Rick Dorion]

Sorry about the damage. When I had the battery in the trunk on my 69 (pass side), I ran the cables over the rear wheel well and up through the channel under the door trim plate. Used one of those battery cable posts you can mount on the floor (under the heater box) to pass it into the engine compartment. This way the cable was inside the car rather than exposed underneath.

[Vegas69]

I ran my cables through the car. Between the tunnel and passenger seat.

[69MyWay]

I just talked to Mark at Precision Shaft Technologies.

Based on the hp, PRM, and use of the car he is recommending a 3.5" steel shaft with the 1330 (FORD) rear joint that is good up to 700 hp.

You guys are right too. Without me telling him - he guessed exactly where it had broken and said it is a crictical speed issue. MAN...am I a believer now! While I have almost always had my shafts balanced, I haven't always upgraded them. I have had them shortened and lengthened before - but on "STREET" cars I hadn't sweated this before. On my Corvettes the shaft is more or less fixed as the diff is mounted solid and there is very little movement or issue. Also, they are substantially shorter. However, it could be cause there too to be aware of.

Aluminum would be cool - but just isn't needed.

Shaft will be here next week.

Okay...still mulling over the possible battery cable options. You can come up with a bad scenario for anything in terms of ways to short the cable or start a fire.

Did you guys know the new BMW's have pyro technology in their main battery cable? When the Airbag system senses a crash the main battery cable will blow a charge and kill the connection to the car. That prevents a live battery and cable from burning things down. It is a really cool concept until you have a BMW blow the cable...and you didn't know it had one...and you spend days and days and days trying to figure out why there is no power in the car!

[GregWeld]

I keep reading "cables" as in plural.... I would really hope that you guys are only running ONE cable - as in a positive - forward to either the starter motor or to a post/terminal somewhere up "front".

The whole car - body and chassis - is the ground... with a short ground strap from the batter to somewhere right close to where the battery is mounted.

I then run short ground straps - under the car from the block to the chassis - and another one from the body to the chassis.... so I have good grounds and I'm not relying on bolts and screws. Use a STAR WASHER under the ground - these are made to cut into the paint/primer to give you good metal to metal contact.

When I run cables or wiring thru the floor - I use a marine grade (west marine) bulkhead fitting. There are many types - and their use depends on what you're doing - where - etc. I like the water tight versions that you run the cable thru - and a nut threads on and clamps the cable and also makes it water tight.

BTW -- worrying about a fire in an accident is a bit overkill and over thinking. You don't drive this car daily - reducing your risk 100's fold - which is why your insurance is about 1/3 of your daily driver... yet the value of the Camaro is probably higher. Why? Because of the reduced exposure. Think about the millions of factory cars running around -- they don't or haven't - taken any particular action regarding battery started fires. Batteries are up front - in back - under seats - in trunks...

If you're really worried about that -- think about this - the two terminals are "exposed" -- what if you get in a wreck and the metal around the battery is crushed and shorts out the terminals....

I'm just saying - there's too many scenarios... Just put the battery where you want it and run your cables...

[69MyWay]

By profession I am an auto insurance/collision research specialist. In other words, I spend a lot of time looking at crashed and burned vehicles from around the country. We search, research and try to determine defects that lead to fires, brake, steering...and yes...UNWANTED (can you say Toyota) acceleration failures.

Anyway - I see the worst of the worst and it tends to color my view of things.

As said - there is no perfect place to put the battery cable. Looking for the best of all possible bad places.

I got the loop today. It is a bolt up universal piece. It looks like it has a good area to go in but have to wait on the driveshaft. I do want to weld the two halves up when I'm satisfied. Ordered a new X pipe center section so we can rebuild the exhaust. Local shop doesn't want to build copies of the pieces that were damaged off the car.

[69MyWay]

Check out the June 2010 PHR "Getting Shafted" on page 68. There is a good explanation of critical speed failures in there.

[69MyWay]

New shaft came in last night. It is amazing how that extra 1/2" really looks more stout than the old one.

I didn't notice until last night the U bolts were also abused in the failure so I'm out to pick up a new set today at the 1330 joint at the diff yoke.

My loop is fairly tight to the shaft from side to side. I'll give it a good thrashing prior to the dyno and do a full review to make sure there is no paint transfer from the shaft to the loop from drivetrain shift. This is the downside to the bigger shaft and the tight tunnel in the 1st gen.

Hoping the trans is healthy still. If that is out...I'm out for the rest of the summer because I have no time to get involved in that for the next 90 days or so.

[Vegas69]

I ran my negative cable all the way to the Bellhousing. I also ran a ground strap from the bellhousing to the fireway. Can't think of a better ground than a bellhousing bolt. It's also 6 inches from the starter which is the biggest load in the system. When I researched it, the consensus was that running the cable was the best route. I'd rather ground through a 0-2 gauge high quality cable than 40 year old sheet metal and frame. More than one way to skin a cat.