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Old 05-01-2010, 10:02 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Delo 400 -- 15/40

NOT the LE junk

It has all the zinc and the good stuff in it.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:12 PM
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feeling ghetto after the first few posts... Mobil One Synthetic.

and now actively googling oils.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monza View Post
feeling ghetto after the first few posts... Mobil One Synthetic.

and now actively googling oils.
I don't like modern Mobil 1... they took out a ton of the good stuff to meet new guidlines intended for modern cars with cats..

I run Mobil 1 in my truck.. but I want all those evil lubicants in my Camaro, so I run stuff like Torco (which would be bad to run in my truck)
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:49 PM
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After a long and very detailed discussion with the man that owns Pure Power (they sell cleanable filters - and fancy oil)... He convinced me to run the Delo 400 (Diesel oil) 15/40.... and here is a brief (sort of) distillation (like the oil pun??LOL) for some of the reasons I choose to run this stuff... in my twin diesel boat - my diesel truck - and my cars (except the BMW which gets Mobil synthetic 0/60).

Commercial (Diesel) Oil

The additive packages for C (commercial) certification are designed to promote engine life. The additive packages for C rated oils contain extra buffers and detergents to keep the engine clean and free of acids. C rated oils are far better than S oils at holding and dispersing combustion byproducts and other contaminants, and at not becoming acidic. Traditionally these oils are primarily used in diesel motors, which are very expensive and are expected to last a million miles or more. When an engine rebuild costs $10,000 - $15,000 and puts you out of work for a week or three, you don't mind paying a bit more for your oil. The C certification tests have been largely developed by Mack, Caterpillar, Detroit and Cummins to provide the additives necessary to keep these engines running a long time. The latest commercial certification is CI-4 Plus, which includes extra protection for high temperature high revving motors. Since it's designed for diesel motors, they don't care about no stinkin' catalytic thingies, and CAFE is a place where you get a cup of joe and a donut. CI-4 Plus differs from CI-4 with higher detergent requirements and better sheer stability. The shear stability is exactly what motorcycles need due to running the engine oil through the transmission.

Although C standards are changed every few years, the older standards are enhanced, not superceded. So, newer higher rated C oils are simply better than older lower rated oils.

Although few car owners test their oil regularly, most large trucking companies routinely do oil analysis on their diesel trucks. Used oils are checked for viscosity breakdown, for detergent and dispersant function, and for metal contamination that would indicate engine wear. C oils that don't measure up are quickly run off the market place. To prevent engine wear, the best strategy is to keep deposits off the pistons, rings, and bearings. Therefore, diesel oils typically contain half again more detergents, double the dispersants, and a much more expensive and robust VII package than S type oils. If you go to an auto parts store, convenience store, or grocery store, you'll see that there are dozens of brands of automotive oils, all claiming to be the best. If you look at truck stops, you'll see there are only a very few diesel oils sold, typically Rotella, Delo, and Delvac. Trucking companies find what works for them and won't switch. They're not interested in saving a dollar a gallon on some unknown oil.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:09 PM
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Shell Rotella T full synth in the diesel truck, Mobil one (full synth) in everything else.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:15 PM
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i use amsoil. first rait oil.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:44 PM
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Royal Purple in the Camaro, Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in my truck/wife's car.
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:35 PM
JamesJ JamesJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Delo 400 -- 15/40

NOT the LE junk

It has all the zinc and the good stuff in it.
This is what we run in lots of different cars, I even had an engineers from one of the companies that has been listed say just to use that if I was going to change at regular intervals and not a full time race application.
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:15 PM
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my bbc is finally broken in fully.so i'm gona try the royal purple synthetic tonight.i heard alot of good things about it.
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:48 AM
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Any of my "old" cars that have flat tappet camshafts get the Valvoline VR 20/50 oil. This still has all of the additives needed for the older engines. Lighter weight oils just seem to thin out too much around here in the summer and we drive our stuff pretty hard. I used Rotella-T for a while but got away from it because of all of the heavy detergents for the diesel fuel usage and excessive oil consumption. Since going back to the Valvoline the Chevelle uses no oil at all.
I have been using Pennzoil 5/30 in any of my LS powered cars for quite a few years with no problems.
Also, big fan of the Lucas engine oil stabilizer. My C-5 had about 20,000 miles on it and started to puff a little smoke when taking off from a stop.
It used a little oil, but not bad. Since using the Lucas product no smoke and doesn't use a drop. I did this in my '04 GMC 2500 that has 90,000 miles on it with the 8.1 gas engine. This thing used a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since new. The dealer said that this was within the factory spec. After using the Lucas product it uses maybe a quart every 2,500 miles and that includes some heavy towing. Told a friend about this last year and made a believer out of him as well. His '02 Corvette used a quart about every 2,500 miles. He drove to California and back, almost 6,000 miles and it never used a drop.
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