Welding the stock sub makes good sense - GM was a little stingy on the welds!
Tell me a little more about relocating the lower arms, haven't heard about doing this before? I planned on getting tubular upper/lower arms and tall spindles (haven't decided whose yet) - will these accomplish the same thing?
I already have a 6-point cage and solid subframe mounts. I installed some bolt-in Moroso subframe connectors many moons ago which I need to replace with some weld-ins.
I was thinking about welding up some forward struts as they seem to add quite a bit of stiffness right where it needs it most.
At first I wasn't considering coilovers for the front but the more I think about how the car will be used it's beginning to make more sense. Making mounts to accept a "standard" coilover also makes more sense $$wise then using one of those conversion kits, especially when it limits me to using a custom shock.
I like the idea of the 2nd gen box because it's inexpensive - it's just so darn big and heavy! Not sure if it will fit with the big-block?
The 2 gen steering box is no bigger in size than the 1st gen box. And if you really want the car drive it's best dont put a big block in it unless the block &heads are alum. or you're willing to move the motor back about 5-6 inches.You will have to much wt.# hanging over the axle centerline.Most of the after market subframes are built & engineered really well.And most of them work very well also.I have bought others sub frames & built my own from scratch. And been very happy w/ both.Scott
Hi Scott, thanks for setting me straight on the 2nd gen box. So the power box will slot right in?
The BB has been in there for quite some time and will likely stay there until I win the lottery! I know it's heavy but it's what I have to work with for now. It does have aluminum heads and I've got an aluminum rad, glass hood and inners and the bat is in the trunk, about as good as it's gonna get for now.
It's not that I don't 'want' one of the aftermarket subs, it's just not in the budget.
Thanks for the input Todd, wasn't sure if I was or not!
I agree with you about the 'balance' - just not sure how to get there other than trial and error. That's why I'm asking for some advice from the people who have 'been there, done that'.
Maybe I should have asked this question: How do I get my BB '68 to run with the LS boys on a budget
Welding the stock sub makes good sense - GM was a little stingy on the welds!
Tell me a little more about relocating the lower arms, haven't heard about doing this before? I planned on getting tubular upper/lower arms and tall spindles (haven't decided whose yet) - will these accomplish the same thing?
I already have a 6-point cage and solid subframe mounts. I installed some bolt-in Moroso subframe connectors many moons ago which I need to replace with some weld-ins.
I was thinking about welding up some forward struts as they seem to add quite a bit of stiffness right where it needs it most.
At first I wasn't considering coilovers for the front but the more I think about how the car will be used it's beginning to make more sense. Making mounts to accept a "standard" coilover also makes more sense $$wise then using one of those conversion kits, especially when it limits me to using a custom shock.
I like the idea of the 2nd gen box because it's inexpensive - it's just so darn big and heavy! Not sure if it will fit with the big-block?
Hi Pete,
The coil over part should be easy as you are starting from scratch. Find your desired stroke and build around it.
On the lower control arm you can either repocket or buy a tubular arm. We used to repocket before the arms were available. Most add caster and are available for coil over mounting. I'd say put your money there.
Also try to find a cheap LSX engine. They are popping up everywhere. Take a visit to your local engine machine shop. You'd be surprised on what you'd find poking around. Big blocks are great but if you can find weight loss without loss of power go for it. I found an LQ9 core for $400 and it would make a nice track motor.
Sounds like a good plan, so who's arms would make your "top 3" list?
Was looking at Afco coilovers, good/bad?
While I think I will ultimately end up with an LS motor the BB will have to do for now. How much less does the LS motor weight? I was thinking the L92 or LS3 would be the way to go with the alloy block but I'm sure an iron block motor would work just as well with a little more wieght, I wonder how much more........
You don't need to lose the big block. The low end torque is ideal for autocross and road racing. With aluminum heads, radiator, battery in the trunk, you are in small block territory anyway. I've raced my car with a steel block and now ZL-1 aluminum block. It doesn't make that much difference. Honing in your chassis and your skills will make a much greater difference. LSX this, LSX that.
While the BB is staying for now it's not very streetable. I built it with intensions of drag racing so it's got 12.5:1 compression a really lumpy cam, Holley Strip Dominator intake and 850cfm dp. It ain't a pump gas motor! It's also got a deep oil pan with little baffling. The heads are early GM aluminum closed chamber with LOTS of work done on the exhaust ports BUT it wasn't built for unleaded fuel. And it's a baby at only 402ci.
While I haven't crunched the numbers as to what it would cost to make this thing live on pump gas I have a feeling it may be close to a used LS motor. While I know It would cost more to install, the EFI would be very welcome. Our fearless leader Scott told me he knocked down 22mpg with his modded LS7 - I don't think that is possible with a BB? Bottom line is I want to USE the thing!
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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