Trans/drive angle ls7 dry sump?

[Vegas69]

Greg, that diagram is great for a 4x4 but it simply won't work in this application with 4 degrees of driveline angle. The drivshaft slopes up in that scenario which means you add the working angles, NOT subtract. I tried the 4 degree driveline angle with a pinion angle of 2 degrees and it vibrated like hell.

Rich,
I'm saying to have a 2-3 degree driveline angle and say 1-2 degrees up or pinion anlge. (Within 1 degree for smooth runout) It's whatever get's your working angles in compliance at RIDE HEIGHT.

[GregWeld]

The diagram shows HOW TO MEASURE -- not the actual angles to use... It's posted to help him understand what's important to be within 'tolerance' and what needs to be measured. From there - he can make the necessary adjustments for his situation.

I was getting the sense that he's 'hung up' on the up down angles of the two components -- without measuring or taking into consideration - the working angles relationship to the driveline.

I totally get the issues with tunnel clearance etc.

[GregWeld]

Todd ---


I had to chuckle to myself -- thinking -- no wonder I got rid of all my 69 Camaros -- the driveline tunnel is just too damn small!

[67ragtp]

Thankyou Greg and Todd- Appreciate your time explaining it. I think its clear now. My drive shaft should be delivered next week so I will mock it all up and start measuring angles to get it right. If I have to cut the tunnel then it will get cut.

Thanks again Rich

[GregWeld]

There ya go Rich.... And Todd is totally correct and I completely understand the issue with the low stance trying to be achieved etc.

In most cases -- you'd have a down tailshaft angle and a nearly equal UP pinion angle - but if YOU did that your driveshaft would be going UP towards the rear and interfere with the tunnel.

I was attempting to get you to understand that the angles are more than just one goes this way and the other goes that way... so that when you're setting this up you have a firm understanding of the possible issues of vibration and u-Joint problems you'd be creating. I also try to write so that others can read the posts and "get it" as well.

The more we all do this stuff -- the more respect I have for the engineers that design factory cars -- ala the Vette and Camaro etc.... they're getting huge horsepower in these cars and they have fantastic road manors and they're built in mass... Then we come along and try to do all this engineering in our garages.

[67ragtp]

Think I need a bit more help. Ive got the driveshaft in. It measures .7 degrees going down towards the rear pinion.
The trans is at 4 degrees down
The rear is at 2 degrees down

Front working angle = 3.3
The rear angle is where Im confused do I add or subtract them : 2 +.7= 2.7 deg or 2 - .7 = 1.3 deg

It doesn't seem to bad if the rear angles are added only 1/2 a degree apart. If it goes the other way theres 2 degrees between the two.
Thought?

Thanks Rich

[Vegas69]

Rich, you subtract the angles if they are on the same plane and add them it they are not.

Your scenario:
Add:Your rear pinion is pointing down from level 2 degrees and your drivshaft is sloping up towards the front of the car .7 degrees. They are on different planes so you add them to get - 2.7.

Subtract: Your drivline is pointing down from level 4 degrees and your driveshaft is sloping down towards the rear of the car on the same plane .7 degrees. Your working angle is -3.3.

Now you see why I mentioned raising the tail shaft of the trans. The RIGHT way to do it is to have equal and opposite numbers. You have two negative numbers but that's all you can achieve without slicing and dicing the tunnel. I'd at the very least take it out for a high speed run before you put in the carpet and dynamat if you decide to run it this way. I'd cut the tunnel.