Gap problems

[sjquinci]

Thanks for the replies everyone....I will keep you posted, and get some bigger pic's....Thanks again!

[elitecustombody]

Originally Posted by sjquinci

Got it....... Before the car was dismantled, I noticed the same gap problem with the door. Today I found the old rusted fender I took off, I can see there was damage to it. So it has been hit on the drivers side front fender. When we got the car it was completely rusted out. Every piece of sheetmetal has been replaced except for the rockers, windshield frame, and the quarter panel supports. The quarter panels and tail pan went together without any problems. As for the floors and tunnel, we have made our own and tacked into place for now. I would imagine a body shop would be willing to come out and bring a tram gauge right? If it is determined that the front drivers side collision has caused my issues with the door seams...What next? Will they be able to open the space between my quarters and fenders with some kind of hydraulic ram so the door will fit better?

I'd use a porta-power as my last resort ,because it can cause more damage and try to get the body on a frame rack, clamp it down and pull door posts/hinge pillars forward.But if getting in on frame rack is not an option,use porta-power,just be very careful and check everything after each pump.Using wood blocks wrapped in a rag helps cutting down on damage

[sjquinci]

Originally Posted by elitecustombody

I'd use a porta-power as my last resort ,because it can cause more damage and try to get the body on a frame rack, clamp it down and pull door posts/hinge pillars forward.But if getting in on frame rack is not an option,use porta-power,just be very careful and check everything after each pump.Using wood blocks wrapped in a rag helps cutting down on damage

Thanks.... I know there is a big concern with damage using a porta-power. The good thing is that I have not welded the bottom of the firewall and the floor is not welded, just tacked in. If I did need to move the drivers side portion of the firewall forward 1/4", do you think I would be tearing the joint between the side cowl and the start of the rocker?

[BRIAN]

Non OEM panels? If so they simply do not fit without reworking. Camaro's also had bad fender to door gaps from factory.

Get car on suspension. Then pull nose loose. Adjust doors to 1/4's first. Hinge bolts on body adjust front to rear and up and down. Use a paint stick as a guide. Then adjust in and out with door side bolt. Pull fenders back into place.

If they are not factory there is no way you aren't going to need some adjustment at the fender to door fronts. Also remember "EVERY" bolt has to be tight not finger tight. Every piece on that nose will effect fitment.

I would do some basic measurements before I took a ram to that door jamb. I have a 69 and can get you a rough measurement if needed. Put the ram down and try some adjustments first. Subframe squared and tightened down?

[sjquinci]

Originally Posted by BRIAN

Non OEM panels? If so they simply do not fit without reworking. Camaro's also had bad fender to door gaps from factory.

Get car on suspension. Then pull nose loose. Adjust doors to 1/4's first. Hinge bolts on body adjust front to rear and up and down. Use a paint stick as a guide. Then adjust in and out with door side bolt. Pull fenders back into place.

If they are not factory there is no way you aren't going to need some adjustment at the fender to door fronts. Also remember "EVERY" bolt has to be tight not finger tight. Every piece on that nose will effect fitment.

I would do some basic measurements before I took a ram to that door jamb. I have a 69 and can get you a rough measurement if needed. Put the ram down and try some adjustments first. Subframe squared and tightened down?

Yes .....I definetly do not want to use the ram ....

[sjquinci]

test picture

[Jim Nilsen]

The 1st thing I would do is remove the inner kick panel so you can see the hinge plate that the bolts go to and the bracket that keeps it there. You will see if you can move the hinge forward and if it is rusted or you can see how far you need to move the cage for the plate. It can be fixed by oblonging the holes some if there is enough movement in the caged plate.

Did you put new door skins on? You could have shifted the location of the hinge by up to 3/16 without knowing it if you didn't do them on the car and match them to the qtr.

You should be able to move the door foward and have it all work out but you will have to correct the placement of the door 1st.