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  #31  
Old 01-19-2006, 08:56 PM
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NTSOS NTSOS is offline
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Thanks Tom! I'll be checking in with you in about a year or so for a twin turbo. I still have to assemble my C4 chassis and I'm old and slow!
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  #32  
Old 01-21-2006, 07:59 AM
buck171 buck171 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOM NELSON
2 months to build as of today.Yes 91 octane, I don't offer any warrantys per say but i stand behind my work 100% so if there was an issue i would take care of it .I will guarntee It will run perfect on the dyno,and invite you to come down and watch it make the number.Thanks Tom
All the info been a big help Tom. Once I get a more accurate time frame for taking the car down to DSE I'll now when I need the engine. It sounds like you have a great rep and do great work which is what I've been looking for. Thanks again, Steve.
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  #33  
Old 01-31-2006, 05:47 AM
chuntington chuntington is offline
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most of the people building ultimas over here in the uk are using AS engiens! they are what the factroy "recomend". there have been quite a few reocring problems (most with overheating thanks to poor carb setup).

try www.pistonheads.com/gassing/ and go into the Ulitma section. ask around in there as everyone is very friendly.

hope this helps some.

Chris.
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  #34  
Old 02-08-2006, 07:50 AM
427ls1 427ls1 is offline
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Lightbulb 427

check out this web site: www.millarengines.com, in the gallery there is a section of street machines with some nice engines. there is a dyno sheet from a customer with a 427. Is actually only 427 .030 over. Pump fuel engine for his going to be every day driver Chevelle. There is also a fuel injected 604 Donovan in a '55 chevy
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  #35  
Old 02-18-2006, 08:33 AM
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try here:
http://www.strokerengine.com/strokerengines.html
I bought a 383 from him and its great
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  #36  
Old 03-21-2006, 07:51 PM
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i've seen some outrageous (as high as 1.14) correction factors on AS engine dyno sheets. You get what you pay for. We build engines too.
Jeff S
www.schwartzperformance.com
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  #37  
Old 03-21-2006, 09:09 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff s
i've seen some outrageous (as high as 1.14) correction factors on AS engine dyno sheets.
www.schwartzperformance.com
1.14?!?!? Who do they think they are, Westech?
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  #38  
Old 04-18-2006, 09:57 AM
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I have a 427 Motown 350 journal size solid roller motor with Dart 227 cc heads.

I bought the Bill Mitchell block and rotating assembly kit with 20 cc dished pistons. I'm running 62 cc heads and .041 quench

I totally agree on getting the tall block it would save the hassles of clearancing the rods and cam lobes. If I had it to over again I would have bought the 4.125 stroker crank. You might as well make it a 441 or 447 ci. The cost is the same. The .030 overbore to get 434 ci was a $150 option.

I went from hot rodded 383 to 427 and traction is a real problem with these 600 hp class motors. Mine just pounds the 7000 rev limiter in the first two gears if you floor it going slow.
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  #39  
Old 04-18-2006, 10:37 AM
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Tom
Whats the max cubic inch you would build with a standard deck block ?? With what stroke and bore to get to those cubes ?

I have a Dart Little M block, but its standard deck height. I was originally going to build it as a procharged 406, but decided to go naturally aspirated ( due to a change in budget for the motor), so I figured I would just build a big inch small block. If my original plan was to go pure big inch small block, I would have gotten the raised deck, but since buying the new block, my plans have changed.
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  #40  
Old 04-18-2006, 11:38 AM
TOM NELSON TOM NELSON is offline
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Default Max Cube 9.025

I Don't Like To Run Over 3.875 On The Crank With A 9.025 Deck So I Think A 422 Is All I Would Run 4.165 3.875.heads And Cam Are Your Biggest Players Also Spent Money On A Good Carb.i Think The Carb Shop Or Braswell Are The Two Best I Ever Used.i've Seen 70 Hp Difference Between A Carb Built By Above Over An Off The Shelf.if You Do Buy Off The Shelf A Holley Hp 1000 Will Be A Good Choice.remember Na Means Evrything Has To Work Togethor.hope That Helps.
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