1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2

[conekiller13]

Originally Posted by 69MSA

Here are the two tell-tale signs that you have knockback
1. when you drive your car and apply the brakes following a turn, nothing happens... until you tap the brakes a couple times.

2. When you get out of your car you need a new pair of pants.

There is also the possibility that you won't have any problems at all. Despite going to a floater setup in the near future, Steve doesn't have any issues with Bad Penny, and it's running manual brakes, tapered barings, and fixed calipers.

Matt

There are also anti-knock back springs available these days but it's always a good idea to give the middle pedal a little tap when going down the main straight before the braking zone to reset the brakes.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by conekiller13

There are also anti-knock back springs available these days but it's always a good idea to give the middle pedal a little tap when going down the main straight before the braking zone to reset the brakes.

Yep, Stielow does this on the straights he said in Todd's knockback thread. If he's doing it, it must be the thing to do...

[byndbad914]

I tap the brakes on the main stretch every time as well. To be honest, it settles me a bit just to verify the brakes are there before I go to a 90mph turn at 135+mph A number of pros set the brakes the exact same way, it was just a few months ago I was watching the V8 Supercar races from Australia on Speed and they were showing the in-car of one of the drivers and every time on the long straights I would see him tap the brakes to set them and verify they were there.

cool car too!

[Flash68]

Tim - that makes a lot of sense, and at those speeds, can ya really blame someone?

Thanks for the words.

[conekiller13]

It's kinda funny watchin' the guys do that on T.V. during races. Their "tapping" of the brake pedal to set it can look a bit more like a couple quick stomps....

[Flash68]

Been ordering a bunch of stuff from Summit with those coupon codes posted on here recenty (thanks to that poster) -- mostly just gaskets/seals to button up this leaky SOB of a motor I have.

But I did decide to upgrade my pan from what I already thought I had upgraded to. I think I am not the only one out there who isn't crystal clear on this either, so thought I'd share. CV Products/Champ makes 2 versions of this SBC pan but many people mistakenly call both of them "road race" pans. One of them is a circle track pan with trap doors only on the left side (3 total) and the true RR pan (5 total) has trap doors on both sides. I found the CV/Champ RR pan on Amazon of all places for $251 with free shipping. It said 2 left in stock when I ordered.

Part #s are (CV) CV1080-LT-RR, and (Champ) CP80LT-RR. Same pan. Here are specs:

http://www.champpans.com/index.cfm?e...ctdetail&id=43

Anyway, after spending a good 2-3 hours last night researching old threads, part #s, dealer sites, and PM'ing people, I decided I wanted this pan -- and this post from 2008 helped me feel very good about it too, if anyone else is researching pan options. It's always nice to get an opinion from someone on a subject who has experienced firsthand all the options out there.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...174#post366174

[tones2SS]

Very cool Dave. I look forward to updated pics as well.

[DIGI-TAILS]

Keep the fire burnin', Dan. Cheers!!!

[awr68]

Keep on keepin on Dave! You deff did the right thing on getting a TRUE RR pan!

[Ron in SoCal]

Yeah Dan (hahahaha)! BTW, haapy hoidays Bro....