A little progress on my Chevelle

[Flash68]

Lookin good Tom!

[Tom.A]

When I went to bleed the clutch I noticed the braided line leaking inside the bell housing. I am using a RAM hydraulic bearing and I was not aware I needed to use teflon tape on the bearing side. The whole hydraulic clutch is new to me so live and learn. I was also concerned that clutch was rock hard.
If I opened the bleeder the pedal would sink down to the floor. I am thinking the spacing was off but checked that tonight and I think I am good. I will check more tomorrow.

Here is a pciture of the bearing relaxed

So since pulling this thing is a big PITA I hooked up the bearing and bleed it with the Motive pressure bleeder

After bleeding I pressed the clutch in to be sure it was moving. I am also concered of over extending so I may need to add a spot on the pedal.
It moved out:

I figure I can also check for more leaks.
*Here is where I am confused. I pumped the pedal and it extended till the pedal got hard. Any additional pressure by my foot would likely damage the bearing. Should the pedal remain hard at this stage?? Does the pressure plate help return the pedal all the way up thus reliefeing the had pedal?
I must be missing something so any feedback would be helpful.

[Tom.A]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Lookin good Tom!

Thanks Dave.

[tones2SS]

Very nice Tom. Love the build. Keep up the great work.
And Kudos to your wife for hooking you up with the doors!

[ironworks]

If im understanding your story. Your master sounds too small.

[Tom.A]

Originally Posted by ironworks

If im understanding your story. Your master sounds too small.

Roger, I did not explain very well. When I had the trans in the car and bleed the clutch the braid line leak was very little (bigger puddle over night) so the pedal still became hard after I pumped it however never would release. Now trying it with the trans out it seems to be doing the same thing. Assuming the spacing on the bearing is correct would the pressure plate return the pedal when I release the pedal? I think I have the correct master as it came from the Hurst/Classic 5 speed kit. I will try and call them tomorrow but was hoping to put it back in Today.

Thanks

[DFRESH]

Congrats on being so close bro---hope you do make it to RTTC---Taco Party at my house on Sat night following the event.

Doug

[ironworks]

So when the pedal became hard, was the clutch fully disengaged. I had to pull the trans in my camaro race ca few times to get the spacing just right. Then you have to set a stop so you don't over extend the throwout bearing. Sometimes I wonder how exact those after market bellhousings are. Just a bit more depth can change everything.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by ironworks

So when the pedal became hard, was the clutch fully disengaged. I had to pull the trans in my camaro race ca few times to get the spacing just right. Then you have to set a stop so you don't over extend the throwout bearing. Sometimes I wonder how exact those after market bellhousings are. Just a bit more depth can change everything.

I've installed two of these. They are very specific about spacing. If you've ever driven a new car with a hydraulic clutch... The description would be "silky smooth" or "like butter".... But you'd never hear "rock hard".

My guess is that you have "something" wrong. So don't button it up until you're certain of the operation.

[ironworks]

That's why I thought he ran out of master cylinder travel. If the cylinder is too small you may not move enough fluid to get the bearing to release the clutch. Just because they said it would work does not mean that you were talking to a sales person who knew what they were talking about. Plus having to pump it up leads me to believe it is too small also.

But I'm wrong alot, So who knows. When they work right they great. But sometimes getting it there takes some work. I love the clutch release smoothness and the height now. I hate low release clutches.