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Old 01-12-2011, 11:06 AM
Motorcitydak Motorcitydak is offline
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It looks like Im going to have to do that. I was about to buy a c4 knuckle but the hub is held on with a rectangular 4 bolt flange and they are different front to rear. On the c6 parts, they used just about the same hub front and rear. The knuckles have a much larger hole in the center and the hubs use a triangular 3 bolt patter. Im not completely sure on this one, but I think I can take the front STS hub and just bolt it rite into the c5/c6 knuckle. They both appear to be the same size and bolt pattern but I am not positive. That would solve the hub and knuckle issue so then I will just have to figure out something else to do for the UCA.

Im thinking I can use a UCA with the bolt in ball joint. Then maybe sandwich that with 2 pieces of 1/4 steel? AFCO makes em with a 3/8 thick bolt plate so I could also to weld in a 3/8 circle to one of the sandwich plates. That would give the ball joint 7/8 of steel in the UCA to hold it in. Keeping in mind that the UCA does not see all that much force anyways, I think that would be more than enough.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:21 AM
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exwestracer exwestracer is offline
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Originally Posted by Motorcitydak View Post
It looks like Im going to have to do that. I was about to buy a c4 knuckle but the hub is held on with a rectangular 4 bolt flange and they are different front to rear. On the c6 parts, they used just about the same hub front and rear. The knuckles have a much larger hole in the center and the hubs use a triangular 3 bolt patter. Im not completely sure on this one, but I think I can take the front STS hub and just bolt it rite into the c5/c6 knuckle. They both appear to be the same size and bolt pattern but I am not positive. That would solve the hub and knuckle issue so then I will just have to figure out something else to do for the UCA.

Im thinking I can use a UCA with the bolt in ball joint. Then maybe sandwich that with 2 pieces of 1/4 steel? AFCO makes em with a 3/8 thick bolt plate so I could also to weld in a 3/8 circle to one of the sandwich plates. That would give the ball joint 7/8 of steel in the UCA to hold it in. Keeping in mind that the UCA does not see all that much force anyways, I think that would be more than enough.
Try to find a UCA that has the tubes running out past the ball joint centerline, rather than the plate hanging off the end. You don't need such a massive plate if the side loads are going straight into the tubes.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:31 PM
Motorcitydak Motorcitydak is offline
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Who makes control arms like that? I just looked at the AFCO site and was going to get em thru there. Is there somewhere better?

Also, the AFCO ones have a 3/16 flange. Not 3/8 like I thought for some reason. I still could use 2 1/4 plates on that and the 3/16 in the middle giving the ball joint 11/16 of steel to ride in

Last edited by Motorcitydak; 01-13-2011 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:56 AM
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exwestracer exwestracer is offline
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Originally Posted by Motorcitydak View Post
Who makes control arms like that? I just looked at the AFCO site and was going to get em thru there. Is there somewhere better?

Also, the AFCO ones have a 3/16 flange. Not 3/8 like I thought for some reason. I still could use 2 1/4 plates on that and the 3/16 in the middle giving the ball joint 11/16 of steel to ride in
Just a couple examples.

http://www.howeracing.com/p-7564-cro...pe-4-bolt.aspx

http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...30101-uca.html

I'm sure there are others out there.

(Actually I just went back and looked at AFCOs arm. They are a better design than they used to be. I haven't dealt with theirs in about 10 years. Those shouldn't need a lot of reinforcing either...)
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Last edited by exwestracer; 01-14-2011 at 12:01 PM.
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