custom spindles?

[sinned]

Originally Posted by race-rodz

so if i was to use the impala style spindle with gn snout, then the winters hubs would work..... right? Yep

im thinkin i could possibly run the off the shelf impala spindle, and adjust the r.c. with balljoints to get back to the same point as with custom spindle pin height. Your on track. .

I heard back from Coleman this morning. Make sure to order your steering arms both for the left side; one front steer and one rear steer. This way they will be the same length and the left side is shorter maintaining the stering ratio and turning radius.

[race-rodz]

ordering them today, and will still be faster than building my own, thanks for the steering arm info.

[540]

Can you guys give us some part# and prices also will this be conparable to CS&C or ?
What brakes can you run?
Thanks,

[sinned]

Originally Posted by 540

Can you guys give us some part# and prices also will this be conparable to CS&C or ?
What brakes can you run?
Thanks,

I'll have final numbers very soon as to how well it looks on paper, initial inputs look like it will best just about anything on the market for "A" bodies. I am going to hold off on listing a complete list of parts as I still run into snafus (see the steering arm mentioned above). Once it's complete I'll have a breakdown for all.

As for brakes, they are designed for a Wilwood style caliper with a floating rotor however due to the modular design you could adapt any brakes you wanted.

[540]

Thanks.

Looking foward to the final release of info.

[KAA]

Originally Posted by dennis68

I am running the Impala 9" version. It uses a full size ball joint taper and full size wheel bearings/seals. For a budget hub I am going to cut off the rotor hat from a pair of full size rotors and machine the hub OD to fit a generic rotor hat.

I've been trying to figure out what ball joints work with that spindle. The ones Coleman calls out are different than what I have. It looks like I should be fine with my lower ball joints becuase they have the same taper but I'll need to replace the uppers. I was most concerned about the lowers.

I'm doing what you're gonna do for hubs. I got mine off a '85 Caprice which is considered full size but I'm not sure if they'll work with the Coleman spindle. Any idea? The only other major consideration would be the steering arm and outer tie rod clearing my wheels. With a 2.5" pin drop, it doesn't look good.

[KAA]

Denny,

I was wondering how you measured the 2.5" pin drop? My "A" spindle measures 2" from the bottom of the ball joint boss to the pin centerline. If the Coleman spindle is 3.75", that seems like a 1.75" drop to me. Am I missing something?

[Mean 69]

I've been trying to figure out what ball joints work with that spindle.

The LBJ taper depends upon the steering arm used. They have two different variations, one is for the full size GM ball joint, the other is for a Mopar style BJ. They also offer ball joint "sleeves" so you can make or modify your ownlower control arms (uppers too, for that matter).

When Den gets his Impy hubs, it will be a good idea to compare the wheel mounting difference with their big ole' aluminum hub (like the one shown in the pic with the AMG brakes) that has an integral rotor mount. Also a good thing to see if the hub od (where it fits into the wheel register) is too big for a typical wheel, my guess is that Den's approach to modifying a stock hub will be far less painful for most folks going this direction.

By the way, if you are really 'core, Coleman will sell you just the pin, you can make your own spindle. But, if you aren't an ME and pro fabricator, I'd pass, this is a HIGHLY stressed suspension piece. Go get 'em Den, I am really interested in how the geometry works out.

Mark

[sinned]

Getting closer, still going back and forth with Coleman getting the right steering arms.

Keith, I'll re-measure the pin heights tomorrow for you. Yes, the Caprice hubs will work.

[KAA]

The LBJ taper depends upon the steering arm used.

Ah ha. Now it's getting clearer. And raises another concern. With the balljoint going in the steering arm and the steering arm being bolted to the upright vs. cast or forged in, is that really safe for a street driven car? Seems like an awful lot of load on the steering arm to me.