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  #21  
Old 03-08-2011, 07:11 PM
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millerman340 millerman340 is offline
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Well I guess I chopped it up!
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:40 AM
MoparCar MoparCar is offline
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Did you plug weld the tubing you slid into the frame rails to the factory rails?
Have you mocked up the steering rack to see how it will mount compared to the C6 uprights? I've been comparing XV Motorsports frame/rack/swaybar to both AME, JRS and Scott Mock's subframes and there is a lot of difference on how they do this to control the bump steer, etc. AME, JRS and Scott all use a dropped arm on the upright/knuckle. XV mounts their rack higher and back. XV drops their sway bar down from the frame whereas the others tuck it up higher.

I'm measured this on my Challenger more than a few times. To me it looks like the UCA mounts need to be inside the factory rails towards the motor and a couple of inches higher. Not really sure, but the factory frame rail may require a notch for shock clearance.

Just looking for opinions. Although I won't be building my own like yourself, I am considering using a stub frame from one of the above companies to do the same grafting it into the stock rails.

Keep posting.

Wes
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  #23  
Old 03-09-2011, 02:24 PM
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millerman340 millerman340 is offline
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Plug welded from the sides, Cut out the upper & lower & welded the seams. Then cut out the inner sides where the cross member welds in to the rails tying the pieces together. As far as the lower mounts there are only a few locations that they can go, If you use the Mustang rack you have to run @ 60.5" track width ( That's why A.M., Scott & XV use the same width.) It has to do with where the inner tie rods line up with the upper & lower arm pivots to control bump steer. I'll address the outers when I get to them & probably have Scott make a set for me..In hindsight I should have bought a weld in stub, But then I would have never learned what I have about what it takes to make a front suspension work...
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