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  #111  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:14 AM
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mike343sharpstk mike343sharpstk is offline
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I thought converting my Javelin to a 5-speed was exhausting, I don't know how you do it but keep it up.
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  #112  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:07 AM
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Jon, I came by these pictures of a Javelin cage, thought they might be usefull for you.

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  #113  
Old 03-04-2011, 08:16 PM
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Lol, thanks Mike, just trying it one step at a time. So when is the first road test with the new 5 speed gonna happen?

Thanks for the pictures of the cage it looks nice, that's pretty much how I am going to do my door bars as well. Who's Javelin is that?

Thanks,
Jon
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  #114  
Old 03-05-2011, 04:39 PM
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A shop I work with (located In Kenosha of all places) , did the fab work on this. Not sure the owner, maybe it'll be at the Kenosha homecoming this year
BTW, I pick up my next AMC project later this month so I'll be doing some fun fab work again in the future too. I'll post in the appropriate section when it's in my possession It will be stored for a while 'till I get my Javelin where I want it.
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  #115  
Old 04-03-2011, 08:42 AM
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Jon,how are thing's coming along on your Javelin.Can't wait see your car setting on the ground.Once agian thank's for using one of my sub frame clip's. Scott M.
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  #116  
Old 04-03-2011, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
Jon,how are thing's coming along on your Javelin.Can't wait see your car setting on the ground.Once agian thank's for using one of my sub frame clip's. Scott M.


Hey Scott,

Between the weather and working weekends, I haven't worked on the car the last past few weeks. I should be able to start working on it again this weekend, first thing I need to do is tack the 3 link brackets to the new housing, mock the rear end up and finish the panhard bar. I also need to finish planing out the roll bar and pick up the material for that.

Right now my front wheels are still at Forgeline getting fixed, they said that my 17" wheels would clear the baer 14" 6s brakes, but it's not even close to fitting the template. So I am changing my brake choice to The Brake Man's F4 caliper 13" rotor kit.

Man, I can't wait to finish this thing, well at least drivable.

Thanks,
Jon
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  #117  
Old 04-04-2011, 02:27 AM
mrgm mrgm is offline
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subscribed....
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  #118  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:56 AM
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Jon,a 14" rotor is pretty big to stuff inside a 17" wheel.But I can't wait to see the javelin seating on the ground.My camaro should get some color this week I hope,and maybe the powder coat will done also.Keep us updated.
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  #119  
Old 05-02-2011, 12:56 AM
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WOW!! I can't believe almost a month went by with out an update, time sure does fly when your busy.

I haven't got to much progress made on the car, been doing a lot of thinking though.

First, on the rear suspension. We had to remake the upper link bracket due to the different shape the new moser housing has, but instead of that I decide to buy a set of brackets from coleman racing.They come with 3/4" holes for the bolts and my suspension set up has 5/8" bolts. Now I start looking at everybody else and their 3 links all are using 3/4" bolts, Now I am thinking that the 5/8" bolts are not going to be strong enough. So I was about ready to remake every bracket on the car, but I bought Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing" hand book.

If I use a -10 AN (5/8" Air Corps/ Navy bolt) it has a allowable single shear strength of 23000 pounds at full diameter, and correct me if I am wrong, 46000 pounds at full diameter in double shear. With this bolt and a nice hd 5/8" bolt/ 3/4" shank rod end with a static load rated at 40000psi, I would be better than a Grade 8 3/4" bolt and a 3/4" bolt/ 3/4" shank rod end that is rated at 28000psi.

I am still trying to figure out what the shear strength of a Grade 8 3/4" bolt is but I have read that a grade 8 5/8" in single shear is 8000 pounds or 16000 pounds in double shear.



Any ways, I got the main hoop of the roll bar bent the other day, first one I have ever bent, and to my surprize it fit well on the first shot. I also kept going over the multiple ways of mounting the main hoop to the floor, and I think I came up with a good solution.

Pics:
[IMG]http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/48616
/2415927550059418106S600x600Q85.jpg[/IMG]



We are going to try and push the bottom of the hoop to get it closer to the rockers before we weld the hoop in. Also, this just reminded me to clean the spider webs out of the car, lol.


With the roll bar mounts done like this, it ties the frame and the rockers together and it allows me to move the hoop forward and drop it down to weld around the top. I also think it is stronger than mounting a single plate on floor. I also got the engine bay bars bent up, but I don't have pictures of them on my camera yet.

My front wheels are still at Forgeline, but I think we figured out how we need to fix them and they should be starting on them this week.

Thanks,
Jon
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  #120  
Old 05-02-2011, 08:04 AM
Bryce Bryce is offline
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I use an alloy steel SHCS the 3/4 diameter is good to 44,180 pounds in single shear. The reason I used 3/4 was becasue of the rod ends not the bolts. I actually use a 1/2" bolt (19,635, single shear) in the front LCA mounting points. I used chromoly kevlar/teflon lined rod ends good to 28,081 pounds of force in the radial direction.
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